Watco Finishes

[Frosty Thunder]

What is everyone's take on the Watco Finishes? Good, Bad or Indifferent? I'm looking for a good all around finishes for small crafted items and maybe some furniture items.

Thanks George

[Kevin Singleton]

I like Watco. Be aware that it's not a finish that builds a surface film. I just let it soak in, and keep wiping it down, now and then. You really can't go wrong.

[Frosty Thunder]

Thanks Kevin

I like Watco. Be aware that it's not a finish that builds a surface film. I just let it soak in, and keep wiping it down, now and then. You really can't go wrong.

[Never Enough Money]

I frequently use Watco Danish oil and like it. I've never used any other Watco product.

[MikeG]

Personal opinion, Watco is a good finish and there is no such thing as a good all a round finish. That is, a finish that meets the two major requirements of a finish.

However, if you just want a finish you can put on everything with no thought in the matter use a polyurethane varnish. It will cover the major bases quite nicely.

[RonB]

I have used Watco Danish Oil for years and it provides a nice finish. The main thing you have to remember with Danish or any oil is to wipe on initial coats heavy (saturate), Allow 15-30 minutes soak/dry time, then WIPE UNDRIED PRODUCT FROM THE SURFACE (this is most important as you build past coat 2 or farther). Allow the product to dry to the manufacturer's recommendation (longer with humidity) and repeat. Subsequent coats require less saturation but you still have to wipe undried product from the surface. Otherwise you will be among those posting "My oiled project won't dry!". One of my early oiled projects sat in our sunroom for 2 days drying. By then, I had a lot of dust to sand out.

Don't take this wrong - It provides a nice, natural finish with slight ambering. If you remember to wipe undried oil, the rest is nearly mindless.

Once you get experience with oil, try one of the wipe on polys. They provide the same simplicity, very nice natural finish and more durability.

[philski]

BTW - the amber hue is with the Natural version. Watco is available in various "tints" ie light walnut, dark walnut etc. A neat trick when applying Watco is to use a wooden sanding block and 600 wet-or-dry paper to "sand" it in. Supposedly builds up a slurry of Watco and wood particles that help fill the pores. I let others pass judgement on this effectiveness. You could always try it on a small scrap before tackling a big project. I have used Watco for 25 years or so and it is pretty much hassle free. DO OBSERVE the proper disposal of your rags and/or papers. They will start a fire.

Philski

[Larry Jaques]

On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 22:02:56 -0400, "Frosty Thunder" calmly ranted:

I used to use Watco exclusively until I met Waterlox. It combined the nice aspects of Watco with a tung oil and more varnish, so it builds more quickly. It's less work and stinks less than Watco.

Try them both.

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[George]

Producing a look similar to a wood-print Formica. Real wood has pores, wood prints do not.

[philski]

george, i have to agree to some extent. but good looking hand-rubbed finishes usually have the pores sealed. i am not sure you can achieve an absolutely smooth (poreless) finish with a Danish Oil but French Polished shellacs and even good sprayed lacquers don't exhibit the dimples that are there because of porous woods. the pores are usually filled. following a Watco finish with a varnish is a common finish as well. i guess it is a matter of preference huh?

Philski

[George]