I have a moderately warped 10" 60T cc / finishing blade that I use
mostly for MDF.
It's nearly new and decent quality, not the best but not cheap
I was wondering if it's possible to straighten it the next time I
bring it in for sharpening?
A couple of things:
1) Do you know, specifically, why it warped?
2) If not, and if it is nearly new, you might have a product defect issue
that would result in a replacement blade (for that matter are you sure it
was ok when purchased).
If it cannot be replaced as deficient, and the warp is significant, you
might want to pitch it. I am just thinking in terms of material scoring and
unnecessary wear and tear on bearings, trunnion, nerves, etc.
Thanks for the reply,
Oh I know EXACTLY why it's warped...
A brief lapse in concentration + some nasty kickback/binding = one
warped blade. :-(
It's only a $45 CAD blade that still cuts "ok", but it add's a bit of
vibration to the saw. And it <rubs-rubs-rubs-rubs> when I use my cross
I would love to just replace it, but if it's cheaper to sharpen and
straighten it that's what I would do.
-So do you know if a TS blade can be straightened?
I would toss it and buy another. As Leon said, Forrest may do it, but it
will cost you at least $45, and likely a bit more for shipping. The number
one reason for a warped blade in my shop is forgetting to take out the zero
clearance insert before cranking in some tilt.
I hate it when that happens ...
wrote:> Gee, how much of a dumbass can one be? Whoops. I was looking in the
Damn, that mirror was in my garage last night. I was cleaning the saw dust
up using the gas powered leaf blower. I blow everything out the garage
door. Well, I also keep a plastic recycle bin under the jointer to catch
85% of the shavings. OK , I'll use the excuse that it was getting dark and
I was between the light and the dark out doors and.....
Basically I was finished when I accidentally aimed the leaf blower in to
that almost full bin of shavings. I had a mess 3 times bigger that when I
started. It only took 1 second to almost empty that bin.
Not all sharpeners offer this service. I have a great local sharpener that
lets the computers and robots do all the work but they do not straighten
Since you know how it was warped, Forrest offers this service. They will
sharpen and true the blade for a little additional. How ever it may cost
you more to have it repaired than replaced. I spent $41.95 to make a
Forrest WWII cut like new again after I bent the blade. This price was for
sharpening, retrueing, test cutting, and return shipping of a 3 year old 40
I would suggest taking that "pitch it" as shorthand
for "replace the blade with a new one". I would not pitch
the sawblade, because, among other things, one can cut several
REALLY good quality cabinet scrapers out of the disk.
Greetings and Salutations...
On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 01:39:27 GMT, "Leon"
Hum...that is kind of a subjective thing. I know that it
is possible to find good tools at decent prices these days. However,
for me, there are other, overriding factors. There is the the
idea of cutting down the volume in the trash flow to the dumps
in America. Then, with me, it is usually that I need a weird
shaped scraper at 3:00 in the morning, and there are darned
few woodworking tool shops open at that hour. There is also
the fact that I really hate to throw anything away (which is
why my relatives think I live in a junkyard *smile*), but
rather prefer to recycle and reuse it if at all possible.
I really understand, though, that I am kind of
out there...and NORMAL folks would just pitch the blade
and buy a new one.
Greetings and salutations....
On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 03:39:25 GMT, "Leon"
The steel in most blades is NOT that hard. It cuts
easily with a hand hacksaw, although, I tend to use either the
Sawzall, or, (these days) the small, hand-held Milwaukee Deepcut
It is true that the blade scraper is thicker than many
of them. However, I tend to prefer that. I find that I can
often turn two burrs, one on each side, and, get twice the
work time out before having to re-sharpen.
They also work pretty well for making "scratch stocks"
for cutting custom beads into board edges and such.
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