Wardrobe

.me:

Sorry for the name confusion, more than one person in our family uses this computer

Reply to
Greg Guarino
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Amy Guarino wrote in news:c308df73-e579-4d12- snipped-for-privacy@v15g2000yqi.googlegroups.com:

I've only seen them in catalogs (and other flat-pack furniture), but it's worth checking Lee Valley.

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

On Thu, 13 Sep 2012 18:13:22 -0700 (PDT), Amy Guarino

Do an item search for "knock".

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Reply to
Dave

Amy Guarino wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@u19g2000yqo.googlegroups.com:

Looks BEAUTIFUL!! And the other pics are great as well, at least the ones I looked at!

FB, other computer stuff, just being retired.

As far as what I do between coats on the wood, with the coats of shellac, nothing. Light sanding later on, and with the pastewax final coats, apply with #0000 steel wool, or similar non-steel, drying for a half-1 hour, then buffing with a car buffer (something Sears sold me decades ago).

Reply to
Han

  1. Double shoulders let you know absolutely when the tongue is completely within the dado and helps assure that the part is perpendicular to its mate. A tongue with a single shoulder can work in a similar way but doesn't assure the perpendicular part.
  2. Double shoulders and a thinner tongue can give you a bit of a fudge factor if the tongue is slightly undersize. If the dado is the same width, any mismatch is glaringly obvious. If a thin tongue is a bit undersize the shoulders hide that unfortunate fact.
Reply to
dadiOH

Don't neglect attaching them to the wall or doing something else to prevent their tipping.

Reply to
dadiOH

Got a router? You can do the same thing with it.

Reply to
dadiOH

Excellent explanation. Thanks.

Reply to
Greg Guarino

I considered using a router for that task. In my case, I was trimming a

1x2 oak edge that I had glued around the perimeter of a desktop (with the 1.5" dimension vertical). I thus had a 3/4" thick surface to take down a very small amount, and only in certain areas. I think I may even have asked for advice here.

My fear was that I'd have trouble keeping the router square with only a

1.5" surface for the plate to ride on. Someone with more skill and confidence might not have that problem. That notwithstanding, the plane did a nice job and I wouldn't hesitate to do it that way again.
Reply to
Greg Guarino

That's where a laminate trimmer comes in handy, like the Bosch Colt.

My problem with using a plane on plywood banding is the sheer thinness of veneer in today's plywood. Even with my sharp, low angle, Veritas block plane, I've knicked about as much veneer as I've gouged with a router down through the years ... sometimes the grain just works against you.

That said, I trimmed all the banding on these parts yesterday with a top bearing, flush trim, bit in the router table, with a split fence and featherboard:

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less chance of a screw-up when you're on a deadline, out of material, and with no spare parts that would take hours to re-cut if you slipped. ... and that is ALWAYS when it happens.

Reply to
Swingman

  1. More surface area for glue ... every little bit helps.
Reply to
Swingman

These are, above and beyond the pale, the coolest thing going these days ... if you can find/afford them:

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latter will give you North America contact info.

Reply to
Swingman

+1

I passed on a stand-alone cabinet job last year because the prospective client poo-poohed the idea of anti-tip measures ... she had one small boy, and another in the oven. I can't afford to risk what's taken years to build defending a liability suit, insurance or no.

Reply to
Swingman

I often use an itsy-bitsy Stanley...don't recall the number but it is about

1/2 the size of a block plane, fits easily in one hand and lets me use my palm and finger tips to guide/control it.

With either it or a block plane I point it about 60 degrees to what I want to cut and then sort of slide the blade along the high edge. Much easier to avoid nicking the veneer.

Reply to
dadiOH

I usually use a smooth or block plane to knock the banding down to a RCH of the plywood, then use a card scraper to finish up. The probability of tear-out on the ply is much less.

scott

Reply to
Scott Lurndal

I have one, but I still wasn't confident that I wouldn't let the thing tilt at some point, gouging out the edging.

In my case, the edging was solid...

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and the rabbet plane's "fence" made it impossible to cut anything but the edge piece, handy for a guy like me. I had actually made a small mock-up with the same materials (but only nailed together) as a test before I did the trimming on the desktop.

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work piece was 72" x 32", so the router table was out.

No deadline but my own, but I was also well motivated not to screw up what had cost a good bit of my time.

Reply to
Greg Guarino

Swingman wrote in news:SuydnaJD5K-b087NnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Didn't look at the second link. Is this the same as what I had seen before? Have you any idea of the costs?

Reply to
Han

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