Walnut finishing

[Patrick Olguin]

As Charlie already said, perform the entire finishing schedule on a representative piece of scrap and see how you like it. Filled walnut isn't so bad, but it will have a very formal look. I'm satisfied with the small open pored look with walnut. For example, here's a project that was completed nearly in the dark, just a few minutes before it was time to open presents. The look on the recipient's face tells the story, and whether or not the finishing schedule (pure tung oil, thinned with turpentine, wiped off, and then a few coats of 2# dewaxed orange shellac - brushed on with a Golden Taklon brush)worked:

can see the tool marks, which in retrospect, I kinda like. There is also some serious sapwood, which I really really like.

Ain't woodfinishing discussions fun? O'Deen

[Charlie Self]

ODeen notes:

Yeah. I seem to recall that the OP wanted to use the walnut for a desktop. Now, even my computer desk finds me pushing away at a ballpoint from time to time, so a filled surface is probably a good idea, though the walnut open grain ain't nowhere near as open as red oak, where your pen point falls in and stays in.

Charlie Self "Ambidextrous, adj.: Able to pick with equal skill a right-hand pocket or a left." Ambrose Bierce

[Silvan]

[Larry Jaques]

On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 14:35:13 -0700, "Slowhand" sheen do you use?

I degloss any of them, but have used the satin and medium sheens. I like the medium sheen better because a bit less deglossing is required. I love Waterlox for several reasons:

1) you can wipe it on with an old sock and it looks GREAT. 2) the oil pops the grain and gives a minimal amber hue. 3) the varnish provides a good skin. 4) both tung oil and varnish are tough. 5) it denibs/sands easily and touches up in minutes. 6) it stinks less/is safer than Watco's metal driers.

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[Conan the Librarian]

I'm probably not saving much at all. (Spar is ~$15/qt., BLO is ~$4/qt. and turps is ~$7.) But my finishing schedule involves starting off with a mix that's mostly turps and BLO for the first coat, and then increasing the proportion of varnish to get the build I want. By mixing my own I'm in control of the proportions.

I hear rumors that you are actually finishing some projects these days. Could that be true?

A totally different look, for sure. But I imagine some folks like the filled-pore look (not me).

Chuck Vance

[Conan the Librarian]

Thanks, mano. That piece of walnut came from Mike Mastin (Curly Woods). I needed some thick stuff for another project, and didn't even want figured wood. That was on the end of one piece that was otherwise pretty plain. I just love that kind of figure in walnut.

Or as Paully would say: Practice on scrap or you *will* be practicing on your project.

the story. But who's the big goofy-looking guy in the picture?

Sapwood in walnut can definitely be a good thing. Back when I was just starting out, I made a little box for my L-N #164 (low-angle smoothing plane, Keef). I had a nice piece of walnut with a fair amount of sapwood, but rather than cutting the stuff off, I chose to feature it:

It's good to see someone else who's not afraid of the stuff.

Strangely enough, I actually enjoy them. I blame you and Paully Rad for that. These days I can't wait to see the piece when I first hit it with BLO or shellac or whatever. And to think I used to wish I could hire someone else to do my finishing for me.

Chuck Vance BTW, I've been driving around for weeks with a big hunk of mesquite sitting in a box on the passenger's side of my van. I wonder if I should maybe get by the stinking post office and send the darned thing out to Cahleeforneeya. Whaddaya think?

[Jeffrey Thunder]

Me neither (with walnut, anyway). Don't filled pores give you zits?

[Charlie Self]

Jeff Thunder asks:

Only if your nuts are ready to be shelled. :)

Charlie Self "Property is not the sacred right. When a rich man becomes poor it is a misfortune, it is not a moral evil. When a poor man becomes destitute, it is a moral evil, teeming with consequences and injurious to society and morality." Lord Acton

[Tom Watson]

Not if you fill them with Poropac.

Prolly just gives ya cancer.

Or, makes ya look like Michael Jackson.

(which'd be worser.)

[Larry Jaques]

On 22 Apr 2004 05:04:00 -0700, [e-mail] (Conan the Librarian) brought forth from the murky depths:

I'm happy with everything about Waterlox except the crust it forms from sitting too long with air in the can. But that hasn't been a problem with the last can.

Are you sitting down? OK, it is true.

We like the nuance of a clearcoat-filled pore to give it the elegant shadow it deserves.

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[Cape Cod Bob]

I agree Larry. If the material is not going to be exposed to water or alcohol, and I want a high gloss, I'll quickly throw on 3 coast of 2# shellac and rub it out. I could do the sam with a couple more coast of Waterlox, but the shellac dries faster. Cape Cod Bob Visit my web site at

the two "spam"s for email

[Greg Millen]

Thud!

[Larry Jaques]

On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 00:04:16 -0400, Cape Cod Bob brought forth from the murky depths:

Right, 15 instead of 30 minutes.

But I never put on more than one coat a day (after the first two, a sealer and first coat) so it really doesn't matter what I use. I learned very early on to NEVER rush a finish. It just flat does NOT work. Warm, ventilated work area, a minimum of a day to dry, low hummerditty, etc.

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[Larry Jaques]

On Fri, 23 Apr 2004 04:35:30 GMT, "Greg Millen" brought forth from the murky depths:

Wouldn't that be "Boink!" Don't you fall up Down Under?

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