Very large, Removable Router Insert Plate

I'm planning to make a router table with a top of two pieces laminated MDF, edged with hardwood. Instead of making the typical recess for a router plate I'm thinking of instead using a table sized piece of 1/4" tempered masonite (hardboard) to attach the router base to with a router size hole cut through the MDF. Basically, this is a very large, removable router plate. I think there'll be sufficient support around the router to keep from having any sag and the top will stay flat with a few screws to secure it to the MDF. I could cheaply make additional masonite tops to accomodate different sized bits for zero clearance. Plus, any problems with making a level, tight fitting recess for a standard insert plate are eliminated, as well as the cost. Appreciate any comments. Steve
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
You must have the luxury of a very large shop to accommodate all those "full size" masonite zero clearance tops. :) I fail to see the logic in your idea, so tell me more...like why not just use a phenolic or aluminum insert of usual proportions instead of cutting a hole the size of the router and hanging the router from the masonite. I would be concerned about flexure and maintaining perpendicularity (did I make up this word; spell checker is mystified) to the top, when the bits are under load.
dave
Steve wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Dave, The logic is 'any problems with making a level, tight fitting recess for a standard insert plate are eliminated, as well as the cost'.
However your comments about flex, particularly under load, has convinced me to go with a regular insert plate.
Thanks, Steve P.S. I'm sure just about anyone could find the space to store a couple 3'x2'x1/4" pieces of masonite in their shop.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Steve,
With a $10-$15 template and your router you can should be able to make a fine fitting recess in a double layer of MDF for a commercial plate, plus you get the added benefit of a nifty height adjuster if you get something like a PRL or Jessem.
dave
Steve wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I doubt the hardboard will be stiff enough to hanlde the weight of any router. It will sag with time. Either find some 1/4" aluminum plate of just break down and buy a couple of inserts. They are not that expensive. Greg
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Two things are important to me in a router insert.
It should not droop. As the laws of materials go, this means smaller and thinner is equal to larger and thicker. Yours seems reasonable in this category, being thin but bridging a smaller gap.
It should allow easy centering of the router to an insert. You haven't addressed this. Inserts are important not just for pattern routs, but for guiding jigs. This is why a commercial plate is a good idea.
I've got the Veritas http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?pageA776&category=1,43000&ccurrency=2&SIDand couldn't be happier with it, the proprietary inserts, and an M12V.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.