Veritas smoother (adjustable mouth) question

There is a low angle smoother, 05P25.01 ($139) that has an adjustable mouth. Is that a gimmick that causes the bottom surface to be problematic, since it's a movable component? If you have one, what do you think of it? Is the fit of the movable part so good, that when lapped, the sole is still flat after adjusting the mouth width?
dave
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Hi Dave,
I don't have the smoother, but I do have the low angle block plane, which also has an adjustable mouth. It isn't a gimmick at all, and makes adjusting the plane very easy. I'm no plane expert, but I've gotten bit by the bug and have only in the last few months purchased a Clifton #6 (on sale at Woodcraft, too good a deal to pass up) and a load of eBay Stanley's (a #3, 2 #4's, #5, #5 1/4 and a #7). I also have a Knight coffin smoother and Knight razee jack plane. I'm also getting the Veritas scraper plane for Christmas, DAMHIKT :).
Anyway, my point is, on the bedrock style planes, you have to set the frog properly to fully set the mouth width. Again, I might not be using the correct terminology here, but hopefully you'll see what I'm saying. When you adjust the iron to the depth you want, if the mouth opening isn't the way you want, then you have to readjust the frog - which isn't hard, but it's just one more thing to do. On the Veritas block plane I have, you just open the mouth all the way, set the blade depth how you want, then move the mouth to the opening you want. It's a great thing, really.
Mike
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Hi Mike,
So the one you have is the $139 Veritas with a 2" blade? After speaking with a rep at Lee Valley we decided I should get a newer catalog before ordering, as there is info on the planes in the new cat that's not in the one I have. I WAS gonna get the little $89 plane, but maybe I'd be better off with the larger one. I want to be able to use a shooting board to trim the length of a board "just so". I figure the smaller plane won't be able to accommodate much width in that configuration.
Sounds like you've got a boatload of planes! You can weigh your bench down with those! :)
I'm probably gonna get their burnisher and set of scrapers, oh and a honing guide. Where does it end? Some much stuff needed to keep Neander tools sharp.
Mike in Mystic wrote:

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Hi Dave,
To clarify, I have the low-angle block plane, NOT the low-angle smoothing plane.
By the way, you can probably get all the information about their planes at the website rather than waiting for the catalog. The prices have gone up, too, just FYI.
Mike
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Hi Mike,
I also have the knight coffin and my scrub should be here by Christmas :)
I noticed you got the razee jack plane from Steve -- I've been bouncing back and forth over whether I should get the razee style or not. What have you thought about the razee vs the standard style of Steve's planes? I realize the planes are different types, but if you've got a sec, I'd love some info on things like:
1) Hand fatigue after planing for awhile 2) Control of the plane 3) Pressure required to work the plane 4) Any other Pros and Cons
Thanks (I realize I've asked a lot, but it would really be helpful for me :)
Mike "in Idaho"

by
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and
just
the
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Hi Mike,
No problem about the questions, glad to help if I can.

which
(a
frog
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the
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Thanks Mike, that's starting to answer some questions. I just have one more for ya:
Having used the coffin smoother (non-razee style) and the jack (razee style) if you were to purchase the jack again, would you go with the razee style or the non-razee style? And why.
Thanks a million, Mike

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Hi Mike,
I would still get the razee style for the jack plane. When using it, you're taking off a bit more (potentially a lot more) material than with the smoother. I find it easier to get momentum in the stroke, while applying downforce with my left hand, as I move through the planing motion. With the tote on the razee jack, I get very little hand fatigue and it just feels more natural to me. When using the smoother for more than maybe 20 minutes at a shot, my right hand seems to get a little cramped. Maybe I'm holding it wrong or something, but I don't think so. I have pretty big hands, too, so it isn't as if I am straining my hands to hold the plane. Even so, I don't find the coffin plane difficult to use at all. The handle on the jack just gives me a sense of more control.
Mike
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Perfect. That was just the kind of information I was looking for. I find the same thing with the smoother, I wasn't sure if it was just me. But I'll be sure to get the razee style when I order my jack.
Thanks, Mike

you're
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jack
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So it sounds like a wide coffin is a good thing. I have been making the sides thicker so they are wider now. it's feedback like that really helps me out.
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Steve,
Do you know anyone that owns both the razee style and the regular style of any of your planes? It would be interesting to get their feedback on the usage differences. I've been in a bit of a quandry as to which style I should be purchasing. I definitely like the look of the regular style better, but since functionality is kind of important (ok, so it's really important), then knowing which is preferred would be beneficial. Of course, the problem with that is, if you only have a small set of people who fit that criteria (if any at all), then how do you know it applies to everyone (since preferrences tend to be extremely personal anyway). Ok, I'm rambling now...
Thanks, Mike
wrote:

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I think it matters more how you use the plane. without a tote you can hold the plane in a lot of different ways. the bench does not have to be at the right height and you can push or pull it. with a tote you can have more leverage as a jack will need. but I am no expert planer really as anymore all I make is planes (G) and I never worked like other people do.
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His best shot (picture) may be from behind but don't him fool ya; he knows more than any 10 people I know put together. His planes are not tools but works of art. Plus they work!
Fri, 07 Nov 2003 17:52:55 GMT, Steve Knight

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It's one of the two things that determine whether you get shavings or dust for your efforts. You'd rather shavings, which means the combination of close gap and chipbreaker on a bevel down, gap only on bevel up like the L-A planes. Veritas L-A smoother, though not as pretty as the LN, seems a good buy.
I've the LN, and it will do nice work on straight to gnarly, soft to hard. Kids up at school who made dulcimers used it to smooth their soundboards, and it didn't tear even in spruce, which is saying something.
Been to http://www.amgron.clara.net/ for the basic course? Gotta put in some effort, as always.

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Now that is a most EXCELLENT website, George. (bowing and scraping...) I book marked that one as a keeper. Read a bit of it just now and will read the planing section completely a bit later. tanks!
dave
George wrote:

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wrote:

Not if you make it right.
-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
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Dave,
I have one of these and have been very happy with it. The front part of the sole, which is moved to adjust the mouth, fits very precisely. It is machined to fit into a machined surface in the casting so that there should be no slop in the fit when adjusting the mouth. Think of it as a large adjustable mouth block plane with a tote and knob.
Ted

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cool. thanks, Ted. You are the 3rd person who's said that the fit of the adjustable part is so precise, that I shouldn't be concerned about the additional "complexity". I just went on the LV web site and found that the prices have gone up quite a bit since those found in the 2002/2003 catalog. ($159 now for the low angle smoother) That's what I get for being tardy! :)
dave
Ted Shuck wrote:

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the fit of the adjustable part is so precise ... for the low angle smoother
+ + + ... and now for the Veritas bench planes with a movable frog (including part of the sole, as well as the handle). A different mechanism. Looks weird, but makes sense provided the machining is done right. Still, having not one but two openings in the sole at right angles to the direction of motion looks unsettling.
PvR
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