Veritas MK.II Honing Guide - Excellent

[Chris Friesen]

I think you're confusing the MKI and the MKII. The MKII guide uses a totally different way to set the angle and ensure that the item being sharpened is perpendicular to the guide.

Here's the MKI:

this is the MKII. > I have no problem using mine (and it has the

No, the "cambered lower roller" is a roller that is not actually a cylinder, but rather slightly tapered towards both ends. The idea is to allow you to hone a slight radius to the blade.

The ability to set the microbevel is separate and distinct.

Chris

[Doug Payne]

Could be, I'd never heard of the Mk-I; when I bought mine, it wasn't called the Mk-anything, near as I can remember. Now it's just called the "sharpening system".

Interesting. Neither the catalogue nor the Web site makes any mention of that, that I can see. Makes me even more convinced that I should stick with what I have; a tapered roller would probably just drive me nuts, and I can already get a radiused edge on plane blades by applying a bit of extra pressure on either side of the blade. Thanks for the info.

[MikeW]

As posted, there is a new guide.

So I think there is confusion in the thread.

The ones which use the 4 or 5-sided "platform" are the former version. The links above will show the new one as well as the "current" version of the former model, which is still sold as an alternative. The former guide was sold for a long time in basically two incarnations, mainly the difference was the change with the angle setting portion.

Honing guides are like any other tool. There are options galore out there.

The cambered lower assembly is just like described above. The roller itself is curved out to each end, and there is a flat portion in the middle for the ability to still do certain straight edge tools without changing the lower assembly.

Here's a picture of the one I cambered myself early last year:

I don't think is as cambered as theirs, but the principle is the same. This allows me to hone various curvetures to planes I desire them on, while still being able to accurately control the bevel angle.

I can hone as tight as a LN scrub plane blade, which I believe is a

1.5" radius. Many of my planes have some amount of camber, except thise which are for joint making or refining. Having the cambered attachment is nice, and it does not interfer, as mentioned above, with the microbevel adjustment.

My personal opinion is why should they have an exchange program? DeWalt doesn't and last time I checked, none of the other power or hand tool makers do.

Take care, Mike

[Chris Friesen]

Yep. It's the original.

It's not actually released yet. From what I've heard it's going to be an optional accessory. The one that's on it currently is a cylinder, but I think it's wider than the one on yours. This is good for grinding flat, but not so good when trying to camber the blade.

Chris

[David]

I asked. they said no. If they change their minds, I'll call them again.

Dave

[David]

The shoulder plane blades twist on the MKII because the blade is wider than the shank that is held by the guide.

Dave

[MikeW]

Hi Doug,

The website will within a couple more weeks I believe. Lot's of scuttlebutt around the net. As well, there are hints and confirmation of several other planes and what not.

As to cambering, that's the one thing I really appreciated about the one you have, as well as others with narrow rollers. Of course, that's when some people complained about rocking edge tools and rounding edges they wanted straight. Hence the wide flat roller on the MK.II I believe. And it's really good at that.

Then, of course, people wanted to be able to camber with the new jig--and it is darn hard to beceuase of the wide roller. What's a company to do? .

Anyway, I use a lot of them especially at classes, and I appreciate their various strengths and weaknesses. Probably my favorite is that Millers Falls from the 1930s or so. It is very similar as the former LV guide you have.

Still easier to hone by hand...until I mess up an edge.

Take care, Mike

[Joe]

Kind of interesting that I ordered this just the other day. Happy to see the post!

[antoine]

Robin Lee glibly put the kabosh on relief for MK.I owners. See below. Watch out for wrap:

$ [e-mail]

[MikeW]

...Robin Lee glibly put the kabosh on relief for MK.I owners. See below.

$ [e-mail] Well, we can all interpret the point of Rob's humor as we see fit.

I personally don't see why any company would--or could--offer a discount or a trade-in for a product that had been made for so long. Especially for a product that sells for so relatively little.

But, we each have different expectations for businesses I suspect. By purchasing from Lee Valley or Lie-Nielsen, I know the product I am getting is backed by good people. Even if they don't give trade-ins.

Take care, Mike

[B A R R Y]

I agree, the MKII is foolproof and painless, with fantastic repeatability. I like it better than the Keil (sp?) jigs that I started to prefer over the first generation Veritas.

The new skew attachment looks interesting!

[B A R R Y]

I don't have that problem. Maybe you should contact LV for a possible replacement?

[henry]

I am glad that I purchased the MK 2 even though holding 1/8" chisel was hard. As far as trading in old model am I missing something. Are other companies doing that. I hope so. I want HP to take back my computer when Microsoft comes out with there new improved operating system Vista.I will be now adding the skew attachment the next time I order.

[Robin Lee]

I have and use the first version - and will continue to do so. All a guide is - is training wheels for muscle memory. If your techique is reasonable - just about any guide will work. If you rely on guide to set and ensure geometry despite technique - that's asking a lot. The MKII version is closer to a fixture, than a guide.

A few more random comments:

1) squareness has never been an issue for me withthe old guide... in fact, I found it an advantage that chisels and blades could move slightly...that way differential pressure could be applied to crown blades, or keep edges straight - all under user control (with good technique). Basically - it probably works well for you if you hold and move the chisel, while the guide works to keep the angle. It didn't work well for you, if you pushed the jig back and forth, relying on it to control geometry. 2) the new guide squares and clamps better - an improvement for most, but a bit restrictive now for those that have good technique. For example - it's more difficult to crown a blade - hence the upcoming additional roller. And - at more cost. The "old" guide isn't obsolete... we just have a second version now, with different attributes. 3) narrow chisels - yup - the clamping method just isn't appropriate for narrow chisels (under 1/4"). The appropriate guide for those has always been a side clamping guide. They're about $10. To add side clamping ability to our guide would add far more than $10 to the price - and it's just not good value. We won't do it.

Have to run - meeting in two minutes.. but will check back later....

Cheers -

Rob

[Doug Payne]

Thanks Robin, useful as usual. ../doug