Veritas Mk II Honing Guide


Hi,
I don't remember seeing pics of the new Veritas honing guide posted here. I found the links on www.ukworkshop.co.uk posted by Rob Lee
http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/hg1.jpg
http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/hg2.jpg
http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/hg3.jpg
It looks like a great guide if you are not using back bevels. But what strikes me is the guide is designed to make a low angle back bevel as well as regular bevels. But if you are sharpening with this jig and using a back bevel then how do you switch between the the two bevels to progress through the grits? I think you have to continually flip the blade in the guide or work one side to the final grit and then switch once to work the other side through the grits. But what about removing the wire edge at each stage? Then you would have to continually flip the blade in the guide. Any ideas?
Peter
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What I've learned about sharpening plane blades http://members.shaw.ca/petermichaux/workshop/BevelDownSharpening.html
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com May 8, 12:09 am Newsgroups: rec.woodworking From: snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com - Find messages by this author Date: 7 May 2005 Hi,
I don't remember seeing pics of the new Veritas honing guide posted here. I found the links on www.ukworkshop.co.uk posted by Rob Lee
http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/hg1.jpg http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/hg2.jpg http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/hg3.jpg
It looks like a great guide if you are not using back bevels. But what strikes me is the guide is designed to make a low angle back bevel as well as regular bevels. But if you are sharpening with this jig and using a back bevel then how do you switch between the the two bevels to
progress through the grits? I think you have to continually flip the blade in the guide or work one side to the final grit and then switch once to work the other side through the grits. But what about removing the wire edge at each stage? Then you would have to continually flip the blade in the guide. Any ideas? snip
I think that back bevel is best put on at or near the end stage... and I'd "dewire" clear at the final grit. Tom.
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Thanks Pete, really cool to see those pics!
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
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Here is an actual picture
http://www.leevalley.com/home/temprl/mkll-1.jpg
------------------------------ ------------------------------ ------------------------------ -------------- What I've learned about sharpening plane blades http://members.shaw.ca/petermichaux/workshop/BevelDownSharpening.html
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote in

Awww....now I have to upgrade :-) Doesn't seem to have a fence to help keep the blade perpendicular so you don't sharpen the blade at an angle though (only real complaint I have w/ the Mk-1)...
ken
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Mr. Lee as I remember, did mention that all problems with the Mk. I are covered in the Mk. II. But this one will probably cost a bundle.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
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Hi Ken -
You can't see it in that shot... it's on the underside of the projection/registration jig....
Cheers -
Rob
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Oh no! Now I have to upgrade :-P Any idea what it's going to cost?
ken
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In another thread Rob Lee wrote

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On 9 May 2005 12:20:24 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Would be great if those of us with the older, fidgety honer were offered some sort of trade-in deal.
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wrote:

Hi -
Believe it or not - we discussed that here, but the only way we could do it, would be to pad the price so we'd have room to discount it. Then again - it's not as much of an upgrade, as it is a new tool.
As we've produced the other for more than two decades - it's tough to eat the loss on a trade in deal...
But we'll re-consider if we change it again 25 years from now....:)
Cheers -
Rob
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wrote:

Is this guide on your website anywhere? I don't want to wait another ten days plus mailing to see it.
- Owen -
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