I was just looking into upgrading my car with a wood dash kit. These kits go
for about $200 and include a few pieces of veneer that are precut and shaped
to fit on various parts of the dash. I reckon that these kits are very
convenient, but it seems to me that I could remove these parts and veneer
them myself with a vacuum bag system. I've never done vacuum veneer work but
have read about it and it seems relatively straight forward.
Anyone tried this with auto dash board parts? Care to comment?
The first new car that I ever bought was a VW Bug (1971 Superbeetle) -
I made my own veneer dash using thin plywood from a model making store
and some rosewood veneer. I made two dash pieces to replace the two
stamped steel pieces on either side of the odometer, and I made a new
glove box door, replacing the original glove box door. I think that
the new glovebox door was poplar with rosewood veneer. I'm sure that
the cost was closer to $20 than $200, and it wasn't a terribly huge
amount of work.
Thanks for your input. I did petty much what you described with a 1986
Mustang. I used black walnut and I thought it looked really good.
Unfortunately, the parts in my current car are all very 3-dimensional in
shape and so I reckon that the only way to do the job is to pull those parts
out and vacum form the veneer to them.
I have done several ,allbeit flat dashes. Seems to me regardless of the
veneer job and the finish quality problems do seem to reoccur. I personally
think it is because of the differential expansion rates of the ply base, the
veneer and the finish.
My solution is to find an attractive piece of wood the size of the dash
,mill it to thickness and use the old dash as a pattern for the new one .
Cut the instrument cutouts a little undersize, clamp the old dash to it and
using it as a pattern use a router and the applicable with a pilot bearing
tracing the cutouts . The glove compartment can be cut with a fine fretsaw
blade out of the same piece of wood .
I will post an example on ABDW....mjh
"Jim Martin" < snipped-for-privacy@SPAMxmission.com> wrote in message
If they're curved (and they fit), then $200 is a bargain price for a
If they're flat, if the dashboard is out and on the bench while you do
a complete restoration, or if you're going to mass-produce them, then
it might be worth doing it yourself. Otherwise it's a lot of trouble
to make jigs to vac-mould the curves in.
Ply or MDF is a good backing material. Hide glue is the best veneering
adhesive (the tube stuff is fine, and easy to work with). There's a
huge range of veneers out there that will work, so don't think it has
to be walnut.
I've no idea how you finish it. I use shellac (first french polishing
I ever did was on my wife's Triumph Herald), but I live in the UK.
Something for a Californian convertible might need more UV-resistance.
Do whales have krillfiles ?
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