"V" Tongue and Groove, shaper

I am going to have 4000 board feet of eastern white pine milled into 6" X 3/4" X 8' boards. I intend on using this for the interior of a house I will be building late this summer. Here are some questions I have. 1. How could I economically mill the V shaped tongue and groove into these boards. None of the local mills will do this. I assume a shaper with proper bits is the normal method. This is the only application I would have for this machine. Could I small "Router/shaper" such as this delta machine handle this job?
2. If I stack this wood in a boiler room of a building which is constantly 70 degrees F could I expect it to dry to the point where I could use it for interior walls. It would be in the boiler room for 8-9 months.
Thanks for any help.
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1/2" shanks
Order no. 855.506.11 List price $190 (for the pair)

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do you want V groove tongue and groove, or car siding? it has an ADDITIONAL v groove in the middle of the face --Shiva--
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Habbi Where are you located ??? You not only would want to do these on a shaper but also with a feeder. You may be looking in the wrong places to have this milled out for you This is something i could get suppliers bidding on.

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I am on PEI, east coast of Canada.

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I am not familiar with suppliers from Canada, what i will tell you though is that there are much better commercial wood producers in Canada than there is in the US
4000 is a lot of lineal footage and id drfiately not something i would want to be hand pushing though a router or a shaper especially 8 foot long boards.
This is something that would be run thru a 4 sided moulder.
look for moulding producer's or a large millwork shop, Generally i could get some of my Lumber suppliers that may have a moulder to run this off or they would source it out just to make the lumber sale.
Is this wood that you already own???? If so that may be the reluctance of some to run it for you George

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It will be 16000 lineal feet of tongue and grooving considering 6" wide boards and having to do both sides. As of now the lumber is still a forest, I still have to cut it down and have someone with a portable bandsaw mill come and mill it. He will come back in the summer when it is dry and plane it but I cannot find anyone who is set-up to do T&G.

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Could be trouble in the future with air-dried. Resin from pockets and around knots is normally "set" in the final stages of dry-kilning by keeping the temperature above ~160 for a few hours. Else, it will ooze into your living space, even if you try to wall it off with finishes. Shellac, which is not vulnerable to terpines and such is what's generally used to control the problem, which even P strobus has, though certainly not as bad as P resinosa the other common eastern pine.
Anyway, an education in wood available for the download at http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/TMU/publications.htm#Forest%20Products%20Utilization%20&%20Marketing
I'd take a good look.

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wrote:

for that kind of volume it just might be worth your time to buy a moulder. just for reference, here's an example:
the cutter: http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G4563
the machine http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G1037Z or: http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G1037
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Whooooowe Yes that is a whole lot of footage and there is only two ways to go, If it were mine i would only find a place that had a 4 sided Moulder, Second way is with a shaper and a feeder, T & G Cutters even in Carbide are not all that expensive. If you were to pay approx .50 cents a foot to have this run it would come to 8000.00 dollars, You can get a decent heavy duty shaper and a good feeder and the cutters for less that that. You need to do some more research and some more calling I'm really finding it hard to believe you cannot find someone to run this off for you.
Good Luck, George

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Would this machine do what I want? http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture?&NETID 21460111040447558&NTITEM=CT050 Can shaper cutters be used in a planer/moulder or does it have it's own style of bits?

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No Because the moulding that this can accomplish would be on the face only what you need is something that will cut the edge, The terminology 4 sided moulder mean it has 4 heads 1 each for the face, the back and for each edge and can be set up with diferant knives in each and everything is accomplished in one pass, The cheapest on can buy a small import is about 25,000.00 if your lucky, This heavy duty Iron.
Next step is plane all material, rip to the desired width run thr the shaper to do each edge one for the tongue and the other for the groove. I'll look up a set of knives if i can and post the web site
George

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I am not interested in doing the planing, the guy with the mill is going to saw and plane everything. All I want to do is the T&G. I thought if it was called a planer/moulder rather than just a planer that maybe it had 2 heads, 1 for the face and 1 for 1 side. So what is the difference between a planer and a planer/moulder?

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A planer simply surface's the wood to a nominal thickness, a planer moulder would surface and mould something decorative in the face only It would not give you the T & G for this you need a machine that would cut into the edge, As a shaper would Do that, As i said best bet is a company with a 4 sided Moulder

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Habbi, go to this link and this is a "CHEAP" 4 sided Moulder they have a 3 sided one also I did not look at it but must be cheaper
http://www.sunhillmachinery.com/products/moulders/m462.asp
George

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wrote:

yes. it's a little awkward in that you have to run the material through on edge, once for each edge, but it will do it. this looks similar to a machine that grizzly sells: http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G1037Z for which these blades are available for cutting tongue and groove: http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G4563

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If someone else is milling the wood, have them run the T&G V. Easiest way, and they've probably got the shaper and feeders for the job. I've done small jobs with my shaper, but it's a back-breaker.
Make sure that stuff's resin-set. Even at that, consider shellac as the dirt-excluder, since turps won't dissolve it.

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The planing and T&G should all be done at once, as someone said.
Failing the mill, I would do this with a router, UNLESS all the boards are perfectly straight. I've done both and the shaper can get you in real trouble. A bearing guided router bit will follow the local board surface, giving a better chance your T&G will match up later. The router follows the surface of a twisted or bowed board much better than a shaper.
It would be best to cure the wood, then the mill can straighten it when they do the finish cutting.
I get bits from Woodline, woodline.com as I recall. Pretty cheap and all good so far.
I worked on the bridge. Do you use it?
Wilson

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