Using templates: Sand or Rout to the line?

[Stoutman]

For cutting curves I have done it both ways. Cut close to the line traced from a template and sand to the line OR cut close to the line and rout to the template using a pattern bit.

Tonight I used the rout to the line with a pattern bit (top bearing). On the up-grain pass I had a little chip out. The down-grain pass never gives me any problems. I have tried climb cutting on the up-grain pass with limited success. It always grabs and pulls the wood from me.

Which way do you do it? Rout to the line or sand to the line. I always look back at how my TV buddies do it and it seems that Nahmie likes to sand to the line while Marks like to rout.

[Jay Pique]

If I've already got the template made I generally rout it. Get yourself a top and bottom bearing bit and you can flip the workpiece/ template over (assuming you've used carpet tape to attach it) and won't have to worry about a climb cut at all.

JP

[Stoutman]

Dam good tip!! That never occurred to me for some reason. Thanks!!

[CW]

I tend to route to the template. Reason is, if I screw up sanding the template, I can make another one. The way to avoid chipout is to route from the template side until the grain reverses then flip it over and go from the other side. Note that you will need two router bits for this, one top and the other bottom bearing. Another way is to use a bushing with a spiral bit. Lot less tendency to tear out that way.

[Stoutman]

Good Tip!! Thanks.

[George]

Two answers given, my preferred the spiral and climb cut for multiples. Pattern can be used with collar/bearing and registration pins and a cut from other side. Usually pretty easy to add register points when making a template a couple inches longer than the piece to make entry/exit easier.

For one-offs, spokeshave or sand. But I have an OSS

[Morris Dovey]

| Tonight I used the rout to the line with a pattern bit (top | bearing). On the up-grain pass I had a little chip out. The | down-grain pass never gives me any problems. I have tried climb | cutting on the up-grain pass with limited success. It always grabs | and pulls the wood from me.

I almost always rout with a (software) template and clamp the workpiece so that it _can't_ move relative to the template.

In a router table context, that translates into a firm attachment between template and workpiece; and use of pilot bearings. Use conventional/climb cut to suit the workpiece grain.

BTW, I've noticed that MLCS offers pattern/trim bits with pilot bearings at _both_ ends of the cutter, so that you can flip the workpiece and template, adjust the height of the bit, and keep going without needing to change bits. I don't know if those are worth spending for; but they might make some jobs go faster.

-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA

[Doug Miller]

Thanks for the tip, Morris -- I'll be sure to have a look at that.

[Stoutman]

Thanks Morris, I am going to look into that.

[B A R R Y]

I bandsaw very close to the line, and then rout, including climb cutting as appropriate. If the cut is light enough, I've never had issues climb cutting.

FWIW, I sand the template to the line, so I guess I do all three!

[B A R R Y]

Excellent suggestion!

Since I have several routers and bits with bearings at both ends, I guess I could also just set up a second router until I spring for a double bearing bit.

I don't have problems lightly climb cutting, but to not have to worry at all...

Thanks!

[J T]

Wed, Feb 7, 2007, 8:23pm .@. (Stoutman) doth query: Which way do you do it? Rout to the line or sand to the line.

Rout. I usually rout small details, so the sanding thingies I've seen wouldn't be near small enough. Routing works very well for me. However, anyone can feel free to sent me aalong some sanding thingies, so I can try that too.

JOAT Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily.

- Johann Von Schiller

[Leon]

Either and or both ways are correct depending on what you recognize the grain is going to do.