Using stainless all thread in large cutting board?

[stryped1]

I am making my mom a rather large cutting board as she needs it. between 2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.)

It will be made of hard maple. She wants it flat (no feet) so she can use both sides.

I was wondering if I could use 3/8 stainless all thread through it to decrease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems?

If I use all thread, should I use a tap and thread the holes the all thread goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued? Should I use glue on the all thread?

I will have to make this in "sections" then install the sections together. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

Any advice from you experts is appreciated!

[woodchucker]

You would not want to thread the wood. I don't think all thread will prevent warping, the rod will just move with the wood.

I would consider capturing the ends in a breadboard . I would not do the tenon full length, as you want to have the support of the breadboard, so I would make 3 full size tongues and cut between them so that you can leave most of the wood in the breadboards. This will leave the strength with the breadboard ends to keep the cutting board from warping. That's my opinion.

If you need a diagram, I can draw one when I get home and upload it.

[clare]

Use stainless stee, althread and a few Bellville washers to allow the block the expand and shring without loosing tension. Bore flat-bottomed holes for the nuts/washers - stainless washer against the wood - pair or 2 of belleviles, then the nut. Torque just enough to start compressing the bellvilles with the wood dry. If the wood "grows" it will copress the bellvilles a bit more, and the tension on the althread won't change appreciably. Do this on both ends of the allthread. 1/4 inch would be more than adequate.

[clare]

Definitely even if using the althread, put end stringers on.

[whit3rd]

That's good advice, but probably a Belleville washer won't be rust-resistant, I'd use rubber washers instead, from neoprene gasket sheets. You don't want the high stress a 3/8" rod would provide, 1/4" -20 or #10-32 would be plenty.

[Leon]

If it wants to warp a steel rod is not going to stop that.

Glue using a waterproof glue like Weldwood.

[Electric Comet]

it will be heavy from hard maple at that size

woodchucker has a good plan

you could also do end grain style

[Ed Pawlowski]

It would be nice to make something for mom. Mom would also like to brag to her friends what a nice boy you are and make her such a nice cutting board.

Then there is practicality. If this is a utilitarian board to be primarily a work piece, as opposed to a fancy board with decorative qualities, buy, don't build. Considering the price of wood, the labor involved, mass produced boards make sense, especially if it is just used for butchering possums she traps.

Don't know if they have maple, but not a bad price for oak

[clare]

They do make stainless steel Bellevilles. Very common in food and chemical production equipment, as well as agressive steem and caustic manufacturing environments (and marine use)

[Bob La Londe]

If its utilitarian buy a piece of HDPE and be done with it. The stuff is cheap enough I buy it as stock for cutting plastic parts on the CNC mill.

[clare]

Some pretty good Bamboo boards out here too at reasonable prices

-(mabee not cheaper than you can make one with hardwood scraps, if you value your time at more than 2 bits per hour, but close!!!)

[Puckdropper]

[e-mail] wrote in news: [e-mail]:

If you use all thread, don't tap each board. Only the last board should be threaded, but if you're using a nut at either end no boards need to be threaded. The threads will interfere with getting a tight joint between the boards.

You can demonstrate this effect with a bolt and two nuts. Thread one nut on to the bolt then the other. Notice how you have to move one independently of the other to get them tight? With boards, it's like holding both nuts while turning the bolt. Even if you start tight, you won't be able to keep it super tight like you need for a glue joint.

Puckdropper

[woodchucker]

I would never use oak for food. The grain is too open pored for food. Maple, beech, Cherry, some others, but not oak.

I don't see anything wrong with making it, I just don't see using SS all thread. Just wood.

[Ed Pawlowski]

White oak manages to hold wine and booze in barrels for years. I'd not use red oak.

[Jack]

(Need to measure her counter.)

No need for all-thread, or anything. Just glue it together. The trick is in the grain pattern and moisture levels of the wood. If the wood is quarter sawn, not much chance of warping. If the wood is going to warp, it will warp, or crack, one or the other, or both. If the wood is kiln dried, and flat to start with, chances are good it will not warp.

You will read that alternating the end grain with cup up, and cup down will prevent the board from bowing, or cupping, but if the individual boards are wide enough, that will just cause a waving motion. Look for vertical end grain, and you will be good. If you can't find quarter sawn, or rift sawn boards, then alternate the end grain and cut the boards narrow, like under 2 inches and cross your fingers.

[stryped1]

I already have the hard maple boards. They have been sitting on a pallet in my garage for a year. The wood is kiln dried. Since it has been in my unhe ated but insulated garage, should I bring it in my house before building it ? (To acclimate?)

Also, for some reason I have read people don't like it, but on the other sm aller cutting boards I have built, I have had good luck with the poly glue that you use moisture to cure. It does foam out and make a mess, but I only have to glue one side and wet the other. It seems to work good for me anyw ay.

2ftx2ft and 3ftx3ft. (Need to measure her counter.)

both sides.

rease the likelihood of warping. Or will this just cause more problems?

ad goes through? Should I drill and install the all thread once it is glued ? Should I use glue on the all thread?

. (My planer is not big enough to plane the entire piece.

[stryped1]

One other thing, I will have to somehow plane the final product without my planer as it will be too wide. Has anyone ever successfully planed something completely flat where it will not rock on a countertop with a few boards and a router?

[Leon]

It depends on how you will make and or use the cutting board. End grain up, there is going to be movement to some degree every time you clean it. Edge grain not so much. Just keep in mind that a cutting board that is going to be used is going to develop its own character and will not be perfect as cleaning with water does introduce some water into the wood. Just be sure to let it dry after cleaning and wipe off excess water.

Nothing looks better than a cutting board that gets used and has the battle scars to prove that it is good enough to use.

Kinda like a New table saw top, take measures to protect it but don't spend more time protecting it than using it.

The poly glues are messy, I will give you that. BUT a water proof wood glue is just as good and only has to be applied to one side also, and much less expensive.

[Leon]

Just be careful when gluing up the sections that will fit in the planer, use dowels, biscuits, or Domino's for registration of the mating surfaces to create the final size.

Then use a ROS or belt sander to finish off.

I Typically a kitchen towel under the cutting board will help prevent rocking if it is warped.

I also use the clear rubber/silicone cabinet door bumpers in the bottom of the cutting boards. I use the 1/2" diameter by 1/8" thick style. I drill a 1/2" diameter flat bottom hole on the 4 corners just deep enough to prevent the bumpers from slipping and relocating.

Then I test on the counter top and gently hand sand the bumper that stands tall.

[Scott Lurndal]

Although, if I recall correctly, the OP mentioned that both sides of the board were required to be usable.