using router table as a jointer

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I finally got my planer and am going to try to start on some projects this weekend. Awhile back we were talking about using my router table to joint since I dont have a jointer. I dont have a split fence. My idea was to cut a square of aluminum coil trim and put it behind the fence so it protrudes the fence out but what I forget is, which side? Is the infeed side of the fence supposed to be level with the blade and the outfeed side of the fence supposed to be 1/16 inch past the blade. I cant quite remember.
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Is something preventing you from looking up the old thread and re-reading it?
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Chuck Taylor
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On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 07:32:06 -0600, Chuck Taylor

lol
stryped the x-no-archive:yes guy?
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Yes. The no archive directive he always uses.

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I suppose he thinks that makes the whole thread disappear from his news server as soon as it leaves his mind.
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Chuck Taylor
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Pssst, his name is "Don". Tom
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He probably knows better than that but it does make it more difficult to find or fallow.

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stryped wrote:

Which side has less material so it needs the shim?
R
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See http://www.patwarner.com/routertable_jointing.html link for set up. *************************** stryped wrote:

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The problem I have is my small router table fence is not a split fence. It is all one piece. snipped-for-privacy@patwarner.com wrote:

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stryped wrote:

It's not your equipment, it's your thinking. You already know you need to shim, and you already know which side has less wood.
BTW, is there some hidden logic to why you have the no-archive switch? Pretty silly when you think about it - since you're getting replies you post will live on.
R
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The in feed and the out feed cannot be on the same plane. Regardless, this is not going to be much good for longer boards. Build a TS jig to straighten your board edges.
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Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean they cant be on the same plane? Is it useless to try to joint boards on this router table?
I have looked at table saw jigs for jointing. But I have trouble understanding how they are built and work. (Some). Some of them are basically a straight edge somehow clamped to a board. That I kind of understand. Can someone basically direct me to an easy jig with a minumim of required material to build?
I appreciate everyone's help and patience. I am sorry if some of you get frustrated with me. These are legitimate questions. And yes I think all this stuff through before I ask but if I dont understand something I ask. I thought that is what this group is about. Leon wrote:

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I only have a small table top table saw.
How do you clamp the board to the sled? I mean, wouldnt the clamps interfere with the sled "sliding"? I know I am misunderstanding this somehow.
Can this work for edge jointing boards to glue togther?
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That would limit you.

The toggle clamps are near the fence on the right side of the board that is being straightened. The blade is on the opposite side of the board. Basically the sled simply carries the board through in a straight line.
I mean, wouldnt the clamps

The clamps are attached on top of the plywood with screws that do not go all the way through the bottom of the plywood sled.

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stryped wrote:

yes. using a router table as a jointer requires a split fence.
note that you can get that result by building up the face of the outfeed side of a single feed fence. putting a shim behind the outfeed side of a single piece fence won't work.
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I am a little confused, this is what I was thinking:
Making two boards attached to my single feed fence to serve as an auxillary fence. Placing aluminum coil piece as a shim underneath the outfeed side of the auxillary fence. When the outfeed side and blade are even, there should be a gap from the infeed fence to the blade of whatever the aluminum shim thickness is.
This wont work? snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

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That sounds reasonable. But with a short fence don't expect too much unless you are straightening short pieces of wood.
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For small pieces say a foot or two in length, would the router table set up do a better job or would using a straight edge sort of jig as has been described here do the same job? What about for edge glueing boards? Leon wrote:

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