I'm putting some oak trim on some plywood cabinets I assembled, and the
oak is about 1/8" wider than the edges of the plywood. Rather than risk
trimming the oak on my old TS (risky because of a rather unreliable
fence), would it be OK to simply nail the oak onto the plywood edges
and then use my router (PC 893PK) to trim the excess down with a
laminate trimming bit?
If it is OK, should I use a 1/2" router bit or would the 1/4" bit I
currently have do a decent enough job?
First time I did that I screwed up - the router wobbled. All the
other times I did that, I used a larger base on the router and clamped
an impromtu jig (read wide board or 2x4) to the piece to widen the
area for the router to sit on. Either bit should work OK although
I've been using a 1/2". Go slow and if your moving upgrain, run the
router backwards - back of the cutter. Even though this is patently
wrong. A very light cut backwards - move the router in the wrong
direction - then in the correct direction minimizes tearout.
Use glue, along with the nails if you feel that you absolutely must nail.
Either will work, just use a bit with a bottom bearing.
Tip: insure that you have a stable platform for your router base during the
operation, otherwise you risk gouging the edging if there is any instability
Good way to do this is to use an offset router base with handle, and clamp a
thick board to the opposite edge, even with the top of your edging, to give
you a stable platform ... be sure to route in the proper direction so the
router doesn't jump away from you.
Also, I find it much easier to pull the router toward me when edge trimming
rather than push, with the offset base handle to my right, but you need to
figure out what works best for you on some scrap.
Thanks for all the advice, yall!
What kind of glue do you recommend? I've got on hand some Titebond III
and Gorilla Glue, as well as some Elmers regular Wood Glue.
I suppose I could pick up something like Liquid Nails, but I've never
used it before.
"Good way to do this is to use an offset router base with handle, and
thick board to the opposite edge, even with the top of your edging, to
you a stable platform ... be sure to route in the proper direction so
router doesn't jump away from you."
All I have is the standard PC base and the plunge router base that came
in the pack I bought, and I'm not sure SWMBO will allow another
signifiacnt tool purchase for this project. Are offset router bases
expensive? (i.e. more than $50? :-) )
I think if I can clamp some scrap 2x4s I have lying around to act as a
support I should be OK as to the stability of the router.
An offset base should not be that much, and you can even make your own. They
are not necessary, but you will think it money well spent the first time you
As long as you route in the proper direction, and have a steady hand and
stay concentrated, you should be OK, but you will eventually want to put a
subbase for your router on your todo list.
It's really cheap and easy to make an offset base. A scrap of 1/2" or
3/4" plywood should suffice. Your router base should have threaded
holes in the bottom, probably something standard like a 10-24 or 1/4-20
thread. You probably have some screws lying around somewhere which
will fit. Take a piece of paper and trace out the screw locations with
a pencil, along with the hole in the center where the bit goes through
the base. Transfer the marks onto your scrap plywood, drill and
countersink the screw locations, drill out the hole for the bit, and
cut out whatever shape you want for the perimeter of the base. Should
take you 20 minutes and $3 worth of materials tops. You can make it
any size you want. If I was doing something like faceframes, where
there's only a little wood upon which to set the router, I'd make a
temporary base that stuck out a good 24" so that it would reach all the
way across the opening of the cabinet to keep the base flat.
If your router is variable speed, I'd do this at around 10,000 rpms.
It'll be less likely to burn the oak and should save you some tedious
N Hurst wrote:
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