Using a Router to create molding/trim

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I have a a variable speed router (on a router table). I purchased a set of molding router bits. When I place my 1x4 on my table and feed it to the bit... the router will violently take the wood right from my hand. I have the router set on the lowest speed possible and it still "shoots" the board 10 feet away. I almost took my dad's head off!!!
Any idea how I can control the board so I can get a clean, usable cut from the router and bits?
The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.
Thanks. Barry
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wrote:

Feed the boards right-to-left across the router bit. It sounds like you're feeding them in the opposite direction, which results in a "climb cut", which as you've discovered is very dangerous.
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Chuck Taylor
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I am feeding the boards from right-to-left (as you look at the router table), the same way the bit is spinning. Is that right or should I feed the board in the opposite way the bit is spinning (left-to-right as you look at the table)?
Thanks
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In that case, you must have the workpiece on the opposite side of the bit from you -- which means you're reaching your hands over the spinning bit. And, if you're using a fence, you have the workpiece between the fence and the bit.
Both of these are highly unsafe conditions.

No.
If you're using a bearing-guided bit and no fence, then you should be feeding the board from right to left, with the board between you and the bit.
If you're using a fence to guide the board, the bit needs to be in the middle of the fence with only the cutting wings projecting beyond the face of the fence. (Most router table fences are two-piece affairs to facilitate this. If yours doesn't have two pieces, get one, or make an auxiliary fence, that does.) Then you feed from right to left, with the board against the fence, and, again, with the board between you and the bit.
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Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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You should be feeding into the boards so that the router tries to push back towards you. When the router is upside down, the bit turns clockwise. Right side up, it turns counter clockwise. That means as you push into the wood, the bit will dig in and try to pull the router towards you. Obviously, you would be holding it securely and pushing in the opposite direction away from you along a board. In other words, the wood is on the right, the router is on the left and you'd be pushing away.
I'd suggest to get used to it, try a small bit in soft wood like pine.
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You stated that backwards. Upside down, it's CCW; right side up, it's CW.

Not if you're feeding the wood in the proper direction, it won't.
If the bit is spinning toward the wood as it should be, the force exerted by the bit on the wood is opposite to the direction of feed (i.e. toward the operator), and the force exerted on the router is in the direction of feed (i.e. away from the operator).

And the wood is between you and the bit.
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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You're right. I knew what I wanted to say, it just came out backwards.
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Number one: Be sure you're feeding in the proper direction, against the rotation of the bit. Number two: Take smaller bites, maybe using a fence to limit depth of cut. Three: Get a primer that covers basic techniques and safety(this probably could be number one, eh?). Good luck. Tom
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Thanks Tom,
I will try this tonight and see how it works. I was feeding the board in the direction the bit was spinning (right-to-left as you look at the table). Should I feed against the rotation of the bit for every bit (big or small) I use?
Thanks Again
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Nosstech wrote:

Let's be real clear, Barry. As you look down at your router table, the bit should be spinning counter-clockwise, and you should always be feeding the stock right-to-left. (Occasionally a "climb-cut" is appropriate, but you should read up on that before attempting).
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Yes, ALWAYS. Feeding in the direction the bit is spinning is VERY dangerous. In addition to the wood becoming a ballistic missile (as you've already discovered), it can also pull your hands along with it when it launches -- right into the bit.
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Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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On Sep 6, 10:52 am, snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote:

Doug,
Thank you. I will use all of these tips tonight. Great info... As you can tell, I am a little green when it comes to routing. Thanks Again.
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carries a serious potential for serious injury.
By the way... this should all be explained in the owner's manual that came with your router... :-)
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Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Doug Miller wrote:

Manual? Is that something like a help file? :)
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dadiOH
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Sure, just press F1 on the router.
If you've got a Linux router, it's probably /command/ --help or man /command/ :-)
Puckdropper
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Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
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Nosstech wrote:

Be thankful you're not a little red. From blood.
Those are BIG bits you're using and you really shouldn't be using them (or any other big bit) unless and until you know what you are doing. I know perfectly well you won't follow that advice so, to recap...
1. Set your fence so that you are taking off a MAXIMUM of 1/8" of wood from any point on the board.
2. The edge being cut is next to the fence; i.e., the progression of things as you look from the front of the table is... a. board to be cut b. bit c. fence
3. Run your board from right to left viewed as you stand in front of the table.
4. Keep your hands away from the bit and the board tight against both table and fence.
If that doesn't cut the full profile of the bit (probably won't), move the fence back 1/8" and do another pass. Repeat as necessary, making the last pass 1/16" or less to assure smoothest cutting finish.
Once you start cutting, keep the board moving. If you stop, the bit will burn the wood. I can't tell you how *fast* to move the board as that comes from experience and the sound. Which is why I never use sound protection.
--

dadiOH
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Somtimes a picture is in order as well.
http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid `5
Jim in Fl
wrote:

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Nosstech wrote:

be? If that isn't the problem, try making shallower passes. Using a featherboard setup might help also. Another thought: you're not feeding the board between the bit and the fence, are you?
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wrote:

Yes, i set the depth with the fence and feed the board between the bit and the fence. I was feeding the board from right-to-left (into the rotation of the bit (counter clockwise)).
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Heehee! Oh, sorry. Uh, don't do this. Tom
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