Update on cutting half laps

Well, I went to Lee Valley Tools and picked up the Kreg Mitre Gauge Tuesday. Cost $169 CA before taxes. I briefly considered the Incra Mitre 1000SE which was exactly the same price. However the Incra was considerably heavier, it had more hardware behind the fence which would tend to make it more likely to fall off the edge of a table saw and I could see immediately that it had a slightly higher learning curve to properly operate it. Not that the learning curve was a detriment or anything like that, because I'm sure it would have added a little extra capability over the Kreg, but I was looking for simple, easy to use and easy to assemble. The Kreg had that.
Anyway I used the mitre yesterday. What a difference over the stock 6" mitre. With the tape measure properly calibrated, the flip stop properly set, I was able to easily knock off a good 80% of the time needed to cut tenons to an exact length. No more of this sneaking up on a cut line and accidentally going over it with an attendant amount of cursing. I cut in two hours what had previously taken me eight. My buddy who to date has been a little afraid of the tablesaw and never would have considered trying to cut tenons was actually eager to try it out for himself, and he cut them perfectly.
It's nice when you buy a tool that meets expectations. It's really nice when you buy one that easily surpasses those expectations and does the job in one fifth of the time. I should have bought one of these mitres years ago!
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Cool!
I have a question for you. The adjustable flip stop, is it held in place by a "T" style bolt or a regular hex head bolt? The bolt that slides inside the fence track top slot.
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by
It's held in place by a "T" style bolt. However, it would likely be interchangeable with a hex head bolt since all fence track slots appear to be the same size.
I've got a question for you. You've had your Kreg for awhile now. Have you used any of the track slots to add some type of optional appliance and if so what were they? Also, have you added a sacrificial wooden fence by any chance?
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wrote in message

You dont want to use the hex bolts for the sliding stop, mine came that way and was later advised to use the "T" bolt. The T bolt sldes back and forth down the track much more smoothly AND it stays where you want when you tighten the thumb nut to lock the stop in position. With the hex nut the stop slid irratically AND creeped a bit when locking down with the thumb nut. I just wanted to make you aware of this for future additions to sliding bolts in slots. ;~)

No additions yet! BUT for a coulple of years now I have been wanting to add a sacrificial fence. Big project. LOL I want to add a scarificial fence and cover the face of it with PSA sand paper to add more grip to the surface. IIRC the later models have a break away lower section to the stop so that it will fot properly over a wooden fence. It is indicated by a crimped spot near the bottom to ease breaking away.
So far I have only cut into the fence a couple of times when forgetting to adjust the fence distance from the blade and setting the gauge to 45 degrees.
Typically only uwe the Kreg for squaring stock and cutting a few shorter pieces. I suspect you could add a longer fence similar to the Incra styles for longer cut off capacity.
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way
forth
On my model, the fence itself is held to the mitre by two hex head bolts. If it's the same way with yours, have you considered replacing them with T bolts?

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Tool Reviews mentions that. He just glued some sandpaper directly to the aluminum.
As to adding additions or jigs to the fance, I'm considering attaching a bottle holder so I can safely put down my beer when I want to cut something. :)

Yup, my model has that breakaway piece. I am am considering buying the square production stop for about $20.
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I had to take a look. Yes I did! and I used the Brass T bolts so every thing slides creamy.

I considered that stop too, and I'll say this again, I mostly use mine to square stock. The flip up comes in handy, the production stop would have to be removed IIRC. I try to use my Dubby's for production cutting.
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I forgot to mention, it immediately occurred to that a sacrificial fence would come in handy when I was cross cutting finer woods and wanted to prevent tear out.
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Especially for that and indicating the exact cut location for measuring down to locate the stop. I still have not attached the tape measure to my fence. ;~)
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