i am looking for a throat plate for my unisaw i remember Norm had an aluminum one that held wooden inserts any idea where i can find that? i have googled already and had very few results..if not that one then what else do people use?
I just make 'em as needed from scrap material--if they're for something that's going to see a lot of projected use, then hardwood or maybe something laminated; if just a one-off, any ol' thing'll work just fine.
i am looking for a throat plate for my unisaw i remember Norm had an aluminum one that held wooden inserts any idea where i can find that? i have googled already and had very few results..if not that one then what else do people use? ============================================================================================================================= Your Google must be defective.
one that held wooden inserts any idea where i can find that? i have googled already and had very few results..if not that one then what else do people use?
IIRC those were discontinued long ago.
one that held wooden inserts any idea where i can find that? i have googled already and had very few results..if not that one then what else do people use?
Just make your own. I use MDF with a formica laminate.
I also picked up a cheap plastic (milk container like plastic) cutting board.
Ply wood.
Whatever you use put a finish on it to make it smooth, make 3 at least. one zero clearance one for a dado one for angled cuts.
=============================================================================================================================
this is more what he is looking for:
one that held wooden inserts any idea where i can find that? i have googled already and had very few results..if not that one then what else do people use?
James engstrom wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Lee Valley sells one that probably could use wooden inserts:
Puckdropper
luminum one that held wooden inserts any idea where i can find that? i have googled already and had very few results..if not that one then what else d o people use?''
Check out Charles Neil's site:
On the other hand, I've been making my own inserts for years. I use
1/2" Baltic Birch with small screws in the ends for height adjustment. The screws that work best are the same that I use for Blum cup hinges.
=============================================================================================================================
Close, sorta, kinda but I didn't see what I think that James is looking for; an insert that has replaceable zero clearance center inserts.
I've got one in the shop for my Jet Cabinet saw that I bought (99% sure) at the local Woodcraft store about five years ago. Red anodized aluminum frame with little spring loaded balls to help keep it snug and adjustable (hex key) headless screws to level it.
Then, mounted therein is a phenolic plate which forms the zero-clearance part. I THINK I may have the manufacturer's name out in the shop if I look hard enough. If you can't dig it up at Woodcraft, etc. let me know and I try to find it (the manufacturer's name)for you.
FWIW, I do recall that the packaging was rather minimalist - kinda like you'd expect if some machinist had some spare time on a CNC rig and figured to make make a buck or two or three.
I THINK that a Unisaw plate was one of the models offered.
Only thing that I see on Woodcraft presently is:
There you go, James. That's the same one that I have for my Jet. When needed, I'll just run some white oak scraps through the planer to get the proper thickness.
I should have read the damn thread in order and saved the time.
Thanks, Puckdropper!
P.S. Those puppies have really gotten dear. Don't think mine was a close-out item at Woodcraft, but it could have been. Think I paid less than $40 for mine 5 or 6 years back.
Daxxxx!!! I guess. Almost $100 for something that takes
I suppose it depends on whether he has a band saw or not. The insert can probably be made on a table saw.
True, but the beauty of the one described is that the replacement pieces are a simple rectangle. Once you get the thickness down, it's a breeze to cut a dozen and have them waiting in the wings. No worries about leveling them, etc. Still, for $85...
...
All it would take is a jigsaw and rasp/file and about 10-15 minutes instead of 5...
Or, spend a little longer and route out a center section for the inserts if one is really that serious that want them that way.
The LV one is just ridiculously overpriced im(nsh)o...at a third of that I'd still balk.
What I do is cut rectangular blanks on the table saw, slightly oversized, then cut the rounded corners on the bandsaw, slightly oversized, then final cut using a template bit on the router table (the original insert is the template).
I make them up in batches and my last batch has lasted for years.
luminum one that held wooden inserts any idea where i can find that? i have googled already and had very few results..if not that one then what else d o people use?
1/2" Baltic birch. They last for years, even longer if you patch them with epoxy putty.
I've cut plenty of them out on a cheap scroll saw. You can also use a jig saw, router, or even by hand with a coping saw or fret saw. Rip to width first on the table saw and then you only have to cut the curve at each end.
On 2/23/2013 9:55 PM, Jim Weisgram wrote: ...
...
Dang!! Why in the world haven't I ever thought of it (in 50-something years!) Good catch--use patterns all the time but for some reason when make one of these end up doing it by hand automatically w/o thinking about having a pattern already at the ready...
I used the plate as a pattern too. But the original plate is loose in the access hole.
I put a bullet catch in mine. But next time I will cut to exact size on the sides, easily measurable. And calculate the radius, and make one master. Then do the rest as a pattern of that. Much easier since the bullet catches are expensive these days, and also need to be countersunk to just the right depth.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.