Unisaw Switch Update

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On 5/22/12 9:49 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:

False inference.
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-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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Slight correction: There was no existing anything regarding wiring for this saw, except that the new motor came wired. Jonas' dad had a friend with this saw in an old shop. The saw was given to Jonas. We did some cleanup and check some alignments & other conditions of the saw, before considering any wiring. All wiring, from the breaker panel to and including the switch is new. *The saw is missing the $8.15 flange (large washer) that the blade nut secures the blade with, so he can't install a blade, yet. Jonas has a new Unifence & side table frame (no table top, yet), so that'll be installed next.

Almost all of the major wiring in my shop was done by an electrician. Jonas thought he could do his saw wiring. He's learning his limits, too, but learning, nonetheless.
Sonny
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wrote:

I sit corrected. (too lazy to stand)

It's legal in most states to do your own wiring, so I always have. There are lots of books which would help Jonas on his quest. http://tinyurl.com/cvosvox The library is always my first stop, to see if they're worth reading. I sometimes go through 3 or 4 to find a good one. When I find one I like, I usually buy it.
-- Progress is the product of human agency. Things get better because we make them better. Things go wrong when we get too comfortable, when we fail to take risks or seize opportunities. -- Susan Rice
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the term "motor expert"

Once we had our wiring problem, we brought a copy of the motor specs to the local motor experts, Judice Electric Motor Co., and got advice from them, regarding proper wiring and whether the switch was appropriate for the 4 hp saw, relative to the specs. Judice Electric is relaiable, I've had past work performed by them. To the best of their knowledge and charts, they offered their opinion about what all wiring was needed. Then I went to Teche Electric Supply and the sales rep, knowledgeable, also, helped us. The electrician hired was standing there and I asked his advice and if he'd come out to do the work.
Karl may have been referring to my reference to motor experts, Judice Electric .... (and (implied?) the other experts, in their turn, in servicing us).
Sonny
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On 5/22/2012 12:13 PM, Sonny wrote:

Yep, what you clearly said:
On 5/21/2012 11:12 AM, Sonny wrote: > Re: 4 HP motor install > > Spoke to the local motor experts. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Your phrase, not mine. And what the "motor experts" said:
> The standard Unisaw switch is > sufficient. He did have and offered to us a switch with the built-in > LVC unit, for $254. He said we need a 35 amp breaker and #8 wire. > He also said a 5HP motor would require a different switch and larger > breaker, also.
Some folks just don't bother to read before they jump.
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RE: Subject
NEMA general purpose motor ratings are 3HP & 5HP.
4HP would be a definite purpose motor.
A table saw is considered a general purpose application.
The thermal-magnetic c'bkr for a motor application is chosen for it's ability to handle the inrush current of the motor.
For a 3HP, cap start, cap run, 230VAC, 1 PH motor, a 2P-30A c'bkr is req'd which then requires #10 AWG copper wire between c'bkr and motor.
For a 5HP, cap start, cap run, 230VAC, 1 PH motor, a 2P-40A c'bkr is req'd which then requires #8 AWG copper wire between c'bkr and motor..
For either of these configurations, only the wiring is protected.
An overload relay is req'd to protect the motor windings.
The lowest cost way to wire between c'bkr and motor is to use a 25 ft molded cord set with receptacle clipped for direct wiring.
Lew
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