unisaw motor load


What sort of wiring do I need for a 3 hp 220 volt unisaw? Is 20 amp sufficient? I can't seem to find anything regarding this. The reason that I ask is that I may upgrade my unisaw motor. There is a 1 1/2 motor on it that my father rigged up to put on it. It isn't right but it cuts. I want to make it right. Before I upgrade I want to make sure the electric power is there to run the saw. 5 hp seems like overkill. Comments?
Pierce
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20 amp service should handle it. Probably rated 15. Which, speaking of overkill, will get you "5HP" at 130 volts from Sears....
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"R. Pierce Butler" wrote in message

Mine's been on a 10ga/220v/20 Amp circuit for a long time.
As far as wiring: 12/2 with ground will be sufficient for the above circuit, but I always go with 10/2 so I can increase the circuit amperage if the need arises in the future. YMMV
In the past the plug that comes standard on the 3HP Delta Unisaws is a NEMA 6-15P.
It will fit into 6-15R receptacle, as well as a 20 amp, 6-20R receptacle, should you decide to make a jumper or extension cord.
And for the nitpickers, and because codes generally specify the "receptacle" requirements, not the male plug, the NEMA 6-15P plug will handle the 20 amp circuit, and the 3 HP UniSaw startup amperage, with no problem whatsoever.
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I will go with the 12 ga wire. Have you seen the price of copper lately? It is nuts! I haven't bothered with the plug in the past. I just wired it direct. I have looked at plugs in the past and decided it just wasn't worth the trouble as I don't move the saw around. I have been thinking about getting a mobile base for it which would justify getting a plug and socket. Seems that there are a few options for a mobile base for a Unisaw. Which base is the best?
Pierce
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My Unisaw has the factory style plug into a heavier (8 ga?) extension cord, so I can unplug the saw when I'm done with it. I'd rather it not be plugged in and waiting for someone to start it up, when I'm not there. That was the wire size the hardware guy had in Dayglo Yellow super-flexible cover. The price for 10' just wasn't that grim.
The Delta mobile base, if you have the 52" fence version, is rather convenient, and is well-made. Mine came as part of the package when I bought it, but the local dealers can get them relatively easily. Being able to reorganize my shop for different projects is a good thing. It used to be a minimum-sized two-car garage in an earlier incarnation.
Enjoy your new/old saw.
Patriarch
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I think I will get a new mobile base this weekend. Moving stuff around at will is quite appealing. I only have a 15x30 shop so space is an issue.
I will fire the beast up later today. It hasn't run in over 12 years. Converting the barn to a workshop has been an adventure and a giant money suck. I did score a 3 year old refrigerator for it. My son's girlfriend had one that she didn't want so she gave it to me. Next thing is some running water, networking and phone and I am good to go.
Pierce
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On Wed, 14 Jun 2006 03:43:17 GMT, "R. Pierce Butler"

3 HP Unisaw comes with a NEMA 6-15 plug, however I wired mine for a NEMA 6-20.
Frank
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"R. Pierce Butler"

A 20amp 220v circuit wired with 10/2WG is more than sufficient (depending on distance from panel) in most applications. I would suggest a dedicated circuit and change the receptacle and plug to NEMA L6-20 (TwistLock) I would avoid direct wiring unless you use a disconnect.
Dave Electrical advice from non-electricians is free and worth every cent!
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Teamcasa wrote:

220 volts will halve the amps of a similar size 110 volt motor FWIW sw
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Ohms law strikes again.
Amps times volts equals watts is one of my favorites. (:>)
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"R. Pierce Butler" > >What sort of wiring do I need for a 3 hp 220 volt unisaw?
<snip>
I like #10-2 with ground wire, 2P-30A c'bkr and 30 amp locking receptacle and plug.
If you go to 5 HP, use #8-2, 2P-40A.
BTW, lowest cost way to buy wire is to buy a 10-2 /w/ gnd, 25 ft molded cord set, then chop off the ends.
Hard wire one end into saw, the other gets wired with the locking plug.
Lew
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Dedicated circuit I have. I have armored cable on the saw now so I think that lends itself to a more permanent solution. Should I change the wiring to something like a rubber jacketed stranded cable and go with the L6-20 or L6-30 plug/receptical?
Wire length to the panel is less than 30 feet.
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Armored cable? Do you mean the wires are in flex conduit?(aluminum or steel) Something to consider, Cords are used to absorb the vibration/movement of the machine. If you are making a permanent connection using flex conduit, the wire should be a fine stranded wire (like a cord has) not a solid core wire. You can get away with a THNN stranded wire but I would still opt for fine stranded wire for the actual connection to the saw.
As for the plug, if its wired permanently, and you have a disconnect between the saw and panel, you should be fine.
Dave Again, Electrical advice from non-electricians is free and worth every cent!
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It currently is wired with standard "BX" with solid core wire. My father was never a good electrician. He was too used to "making do" instead of "making right" likely due to his living thru the depression. Me? I would rather do it right once and never have to touch it again. I will be going to my local hardware store for some wire today. They have old stock and havent changed the pricing which makes wire about 30% lower than what I can get at Lowes or HD. In any case, I will be getting a L6-30 plug and receptical and some 10 ga rubber jacket wire. It will be fun to rewire the entire saw.
Pierce
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50 ft of 10ga extension cord cost me $35.00 from my local hardware store. HD want $50.00 for the same thing.
Pierce
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