uniclic

anyone know how to form a uniclic profile on the cut end of engineered hardwood or stranded bamboo flooring? Does not need to have the full clic, but needs to fit - for right angle joint where I need to stagger lengths and the material only comes in 2 meter peices. Is there a router bit that would do the job????
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As many times custom or replacement decorate sticks that are put in corners of homes and woodwork ...
Multi-pass cuts. Find several or more cutters working at different heights - to cut the profile.
It is a pain for a single, but when cutting a number it is 5 of these then change the cutter....
Martin
On 4/18/2013 12:34 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

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On Thu, 18 Apr 2013 13:34:32 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Place the cut end of the flooring at the start of the row and/or the end of the row. There should be no need to have the profile at both ends of the first or last piece.
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On Thu, 18 Apr 2013 15:58:32 -0500, Gordon Shumway

and south", with the last board in the middle of an 8 foot arch into the second room where the boards will run "east and west" -with the lips on the end of the eas-west boards fitting into the coresponding lip on the edge of the north south board. Being single length boards some need to be cut to stagger the joints at the other end. Using a "transition" piece is out of the question, as is running all of the boards "North and south" or all of them "east and west" as both rooms are rather long and narrow.
Looks like I may need to use a biscuit joiner as recommended on another group
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On 4/18/2013 12:34 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

What about
a) miter so can just butt, or
b) use a solid accent block at corner and butt against it both directions?
NB: I've seen the stuff in the store but have never laid anything except miles of solid T&G so haven't ever worked with the stuff to know what works well...have done both of the above on solids; don't see why couldn't work w/ the engineered stuff, too.
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As noted in another post - it is a T, not an L, so no miter, and nosquare block - and this is not "engineered hardwood" it is solid stranded bamboo.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Do you really need a profile? I've little experience with that type of flooring but wouldn't a simple butt suffice? The planks at the side should be plenty to keep it in place. Taper the crosscuts slightly toward bottom and the show side should wind up as tight as...well, you know :)
If you gotta have a profile, how about T & G?
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wrote:

floating a click. And I don't think you understand the setup. 12X20 room with boards running long way - with 9X14 room off the side, joined by an 8 foot arch and no door - with the boards running the long way as well - which is right angles to the big room. 8 feet of board ends meeting the long edge of another board. Without some kind of "profile" there is nothing to prevent the boards shifting up and down at the end.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

So the problem is where the cut ends of the big room meet the long sides in the other room, right?
Mulling thoughts...
1. The T & G one
2. Half laps, long side over cut end side.
3. T molding threshold (best looking IMO)
Why would you have to glue or nail T & G? One is going to hold the other down. Nothing wrong with doing so AFAIK, a bead of liquid nails would stick'em down real good.
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wrote:

Actually the other way, but yes, you have the idea

The "T" moulding stands proud, and being the 2 rooms basically blend as one, both my wife and I find that the least acceptable "solution" And they don't make 1 piece long enough. About 3 inches short

the joints from opening otherwize? T&G does not lock, and unrestrained wood moves around.. If I just put a T&G on the ends and edge of the click material at that transition, yes, Liwuid Nails would likely do the job (glue).
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

If it were me ...
I'd orient the planks long-wise to match the longest dimension of the room that is normally entered first. I would then continue this orientation to the second room, irrespective of the second room's dimensions. Else you run the risk of having visitors believe the installer was drunk (or possibly insane).
Having the planks align with the long dimension of a room is only a GUIDELINE; in your case, violating the rule would seem appropriate.
As an alternative, separate the two rooms by a visual disconnect. Perhaps a 6" plank of marble or ceramic tile.
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