unfinished red oak boards that beer was spilled on ruined?

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On 1/22/14, 8:54 AM, jo4hn wrote:

Any time you see a beer ad bragging about how cold it is, that's sure sign that the manufacturer doesn't want to knowing what it really tastes like. Any craft beer connoisseur knows that you cannot taste the flavors in a beer that is "ice cold!"
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-MIKE-

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On 1/22/2014 10:33 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

Your statement might be a little broad.
Craft beer or not, it is the type/style of beer that dictates the serving temperature. Some beers are supposed to be served cold, some not.
Interesting info..
http://www.ratebeer.com/Story.asp?StoryIDG9
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On 1/22/14, 12:34 PM, Leon wrote:

Did you read your own link? :-p They agree with me... "Very cold (0-4C/32-39F): Any beer you don’t actually want to taste. Pale Lager, Malt Liquor, Canadian-style Golden Ale and Cream Ale, Low Alcohol, Canadian, American or Scandinavian-style Cider."
Repeat: "Any beer you don’t actually want to taste."
--

-MIKE-

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On 1/22/2014 12:55 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

Then I totally missed the point you might have been trying to make concerning the reference that beer served cold might not pass the taste test by a connoisseur.
Basically not all beers are brewed with the intent for you to "taste the flavors". This does not mean that the beer is not good, only that perhaps you prefer beers that are intended to be served at warmer temperatures.
Personally I prefer my beers to be colder and my preference's are the stouts. I can hardly stand IPA's at any temperature. ;~)
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On 01/22/2014 01:03 PM, Leon wrote:

I'm with you on that!
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gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
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On 1/22/14, 2:03 PM, Leon wrote:

My favorites cover both ends of that spectrum. I love a great imperial Russian stout AND a really sweet, citrusy double IPA. I'm also pretty fond of certain Old Ales and Wee Heavies.
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wrote:

I'm no beer lover.Bear Whiz or Moose Piss I imagine would both taste similar, and the definitely sell Bear Whiz in Saulte St Marie - it even says so on the bottle.
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On 1/22/2014 7:53 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I used to think the same, I always thought what is the point, there are tastier ways to get a buzz. Then my son began introducing me to brands that don't advertise on TV. A good beer does not have to bloat you with that hoppy crap.
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message

Red oak - probably the worst wood you could spill any liquid onto. It has tiny pores that run a long way through the wood along the grain, these pores are hollow and will draw the liquid into the wood. Any hand sanding will never remove the residue and sugars from the spilled beer as they will be too deep in the pores. Power planing may remove enough surface wood to expose unbeered wood. Either replace the shelf or treat the entire board or project to a wash in beer to make it finish evenly. Next time don't use any wood in its unfinished state if you want to eventually finish it.
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On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 11:58:02 -0500, "Mike Marlow"

and wash the spilled beer out. - eventually.
I'd wash the poluted wood with methyl hydrate, flooding the surface, then blotting it dry - several times.
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On Saturday, January 18, 2014 8:45:01 AM UTC-8, Anonymous wrote:

Soak all boards in same beer. Let dry. Then stain and finish as you wish.
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On Saturday, January 18, 2014 10:45:01 AM UTC-6, Anonymous wrote:

Old topic, but in case you're still around:
http://deadspin.com/one-weird-old-trick-to-remove-white-water-stains-from-w-1526958586
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-w-1526958586
Sometimes the Internet is just a fricking joke. Plus you are a bit off topi c here.
1. The OP had beer stains on raw oak. Not water marks on finished material like a glass ring on a table top.
2. Yes, it is a well known technique to remove the blush (white-ish water r ing) from finished table tops by employing an oil and some sort of carrier to allow the creation of friction (because oil on slick finish is too slick ) and then by heating the surface by rubbing the oil displaces the water va por trapped in the finish (by osmosis I presume) and the water ring disappe ars. You will see tooth past and baby-oil, bannanas and salt, mayo and baki ng soda, etc as friction/oil combos.
3. That being said, the image on this internet post (linked) shows an oak b athroom cabinet with long term water damage with some calcification and or perhaps damaged film finish that looks white. The after picture shows that the abrasive action has simply sanded away the damaged finish for the most part and the thing still looks like shit and will look worse after they try to refinish over the partially sanded out area.
You are not the culprit here (Michael) I am pointing out how these fricking home help guru's and others of the sort try to share their in-depth knowle dge only to totally misunderstand a somewhat viable interesting solution an d just look like a total boob to anyone with a minimal damn brain.
My rant for the day. Thank you.
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I'm not sure.

Try a test.
You might want to check this out:
https://charlesneilwoodworking.3dcartstores.com/Charles-Neils-Pre-Color-Conditioner--Blotch-Control_p_47.html
Treat the entire project with this ....
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