un-kinking a bandsaw blade?

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Is there a good way to take a kink out of a 1" wide bandsaw (resaw) blade? Not sure how it got there, and the usual suspects aren't owning up to anything, but it's got the expected results in the cut quality. How do I fix this, or is it trash?
Dave Hinz
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Dave Hinz wrote:

Cut out the kink and re-weld it? A small loss of length shouldn't matter on most bandsaws...
Otherwise...
-- Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art http://woodwork.pmccl.com The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. George Bernard Shaw
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WillR wrote:

wheel, start bit then decrease according to what you have, make bowsaws. Larry can tell you how. Joe
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Ah, I see what you're saying. Could even do that using the saw to "hold" things in place, just attach a roller setup to the table. (thinks) Oh damn, time on the lathe & mill.

Ouch. Expensive bowsaws.
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Fri, Dec 16, 2005, 2:59pm snipped-for-privacy@gigglemail.com (WillR) doth sayeth: Cut out the kink and re-weld it? A small loss of length shouldn't matter on most bandsaws...
Sounds reasonable anyway.
I've tried tapping out a kink in a bandsaw blade. It was better than with the kink in it, but self-destructed very quickly anyway. I'd say your best bet would be to snap it off in about 6" pieces, glue a couple of pieces of wood on each side as handles, and make a whole bunch of little saws. Or, you can grind them into "custom" carving knives, of various shapes.
JOAT A rolling stone gathers no moss...unless it's a hobby he does on the weekends.
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wrote:

If the radius of the kink isn't too sharp, beating it back with a few soft strokes of a hammer will work. Hang the teeth over the edge of a flat 1" thick piece of something hard.. like maple. That becomes your anvil. Now you have to strike the kink across the whole width of the blade at once without striking the teeth. Put a socket, of approximately the same radius as the kink on the bumped out side of the blade and gently hit it. Most bandsaw blade material isn't that hard, comparatively speaking, in fact, I would try to bend it back by hand first.
As it is, it is worthless, no?
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Big hits, or little hits? Blacksmith friend of mine if a big proponent of "hit it many times a little bit", but I can't see that working.

Kind of like a bodywork dolly then?

Well, it makes a very rough-sawn appearance to that which I resaw, so if I were after that effect, I now know how to get it. But, yeah. Thanks!
Dave
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Dave Hinz wrote:

As someone pointed out it should self-destruct shortly thereafter anyway if you bend it back.
Hammering will change the structure (temper) of the metal. So...
-- Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art http://woodwork.pmccl.com The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. George Bernard Shaw
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That all depends on how much it is kinked... and the 'hammering' I'm talking about is more like 'coaxing'... think jewellery as opposed to Clydesdale horseshoe. Circumcision vs pork chops.
If the kink is 'creased' cutting out the crease and re-welding would be the ticket.
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Gotcha.
Um.
I'll know as soon as I take a good look at it, probably tonight. If it's particularly interesting and/or I'm bored, I'll take pics and write something up to post on a website.
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As someone pointed out it should self-destruct shortly thereafter anyway if you bend it back.
Hammering will change the structure (temper) of the metal. So...
That's the clincher. You make the area more brittle by hammering. If it's a tight kink, reuse the blade for something else. If it's a gentle one, the rolling may give you a few more hours.
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Try heating it first. That will avoid some work hardening at the expense of losing some overall hardness on the teeth. You could heat and quench it after straightening it to try to recover the hardness.
Mike
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I picked up one of them King band saws. I am absolutely blown away by how much saw I got for the money.
I'm a total newbie when it comes to artsy-fartsy band saws so I decided to get one to play with.... an early Christmas present from me to me. I'm learning about blades and stuff now.
I can clearly see how one could get swept up in those things as a hobby toy/tool.
Fun!
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Robatoy wrote:

Which one did you get?
I got the 1433FX -- just wish I had time to get it running -- maybe this weekend or Christmas day I will be allowed to play wit it instead of this %$**%#@ renovating.
http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=104
http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=13
I added the riser block for resaw work.
-- Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art http://woodwork.pmccl.com The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. George Bernard Shaw
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I got the kiddy one... the KC1401HD... $ 389.00 Can. It should tell me enough about whether or not I want a real one some day. I am aware that this isn't first class. I can't even get my head around them SHIPPING it for less that 400 bucks.... no wonder Delta et al are getting the shit kicked out of them.
I never had a lathe either, but I think one should really start off with something half decent when venturing into that hobby. I don't think I'll ever go there. I have nothing but the greatest admiration for some of those art pieces I have seen over the years.
The other wood related hobby that fascinates me is marquetry. You don't need a lot of expensive gear to get going in that. (Using a CNC would be cheating? <G>) Just an expensive inventory of veneers, I suppose. But how am I to take a hobby seriously when they use words like purfeling?
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Robatoy wrote:

It's a good saw -- I just needed the extra power for re-saw -- so the 1433FX was it.


I have the King Midi-lathe -- it is quite decent.

Well try it!!!!

Go for it. http://marquetrysociety.ca /
My next jewel box will have a scene or design on the lid. It's fun stuff.
-- Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art http://woodwork.pmccl.com The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. George Bernard Shaw
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wrote:

That would work. Small hits, many times...yup. I hope it works for you.
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I'll see if I can finesse it. But, to be honest, the idea of that hella-big blade (for my standards) coming unglued during use gives me the willies.
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I wouldn't try and reuse it even after you get the kink out. The kink will have weakened the blade and the blade will fail right where the kink is.
You could cut and reweld at the kink, but how good are your welding skills? If you overheat the blade and the weld point you will alter the temper of the blade and it will break at that point too.
Like someone suggested you could salvage what you have, cut it to length, drill holes and use it on a bowsaw or hacksaw.
Layne

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Layne wrote:

Lee Valley has a silver soldering kit for bandsaw blades. I don't own one but I have been thinking about getting one. Anybody own one and used it care to comment on its worthwhileness?
-jj
--
Remove BOB to email me

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