The top row of pictures show close ups of Maple. That is my vote.
That said, cut a small piece and let it burn against the blade.
Maple will typically turn brown, cherry will typically turn dark red.
some interesting brown marking, doesn't particularly smell like anything when I cut it.
See if you can dent it with your fingernail -- if you can easily leave a noticeable mark, it's soft
maple; if you can't dent it at all, or leave a faint mark only with considerable effort, it's hard
I vote soft maple.
Maybe comparing the end grain of your lumber to the end grain pics on this site - http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/ - maple vs cherry, would help. The "Maple, misc" listing has a few more pics, also.
I know someone who is no longer into woodworking that selling an "extra
property" and needs get rid of a "pretty large stack" of cherry boards
he has long had there. I have not seen the stack. He brought me a small
sample--about 1" thick and not quartersawn. Since it would need so
much work, I was thinking that $1.50/bd-ft., or so, might be a fair
price. He'll probably think that's a low-ball offer and I'm pretty sure
he won't cheat himself. Just curious what the consensus thinks would be
a fair offer.
I know I should check for things like cracking. Anything else, like "bugs"?
I don't know if the boards are resting on dirt or concrete.
Cherry would fit into my plans pretty well, I hope he has plenty!
Floor space will go q quick! : )
Bill, most cherry is selling for anywhere from 3.35 to 4.50 a bd ft for
4/4 depending on locale.
if his wood has been well stored and covered , stickered you can expect
to pay around that. If on the other hand it was already surfaced, I
devalue that, since I can't fix it without going thinner.
If it has been stored uncovered and exposed to sunlight, that would
devalue it as it is probably not evenly darkened.
If it is all twisted and looks like a pretzel it can be good fire wood.
It depends on it's shape is what I am saying. If it has bugs, consider
where you are going to store it ,and if you can aford to spray it with
insecticides with your allergies. Do understand spraying is only getting
at the surface to really do damage to the critters you have to spray
down the tunnels, and let it run. Unless they are bark borers..
Jeff, Thank you! You raised some really good points that didn't even
occur to me. He told me that someone gave the wood to him quite a long
while back. If it needs to be treated with insecticides then I will
walk away (thanks for bring up the allergy point). Also, I don't want
extra wood-eaters near my house! I just tossed out a "shop worm"--I'm
not sure how it got it (it's raining outside)! You provided me with
some good questions to ask or think about (before making the 30 mile
trip)! BTW, I got my price estimate by observing that some mills were
selling cherry for as little as $2/bd-ft. Like you said, location,
It wasn't local. It was a few hundred miles due south When I mentioned
that I thought cherry was going for about $7 his eyes lit up and he
agreed with me. But all of his wood would have to be "reconditioned".
I didn't mean I was expecting to pay him that much. On the other hand,
provided it's usable, I'll be willing to take it all off his hands.
Some cherry here:
About time someone introduced the the most important factor in the
Bill, without taking grade into consideration, you can't do anything but
average a stack of wood without going though each board individually, so
use this as your rationale for offering, on the low side, what you think
is a fair price.
IOW, 25% higher waste, even at FAS price, is damned expensive when it
comes to hardwoods.
The other thing is to settle on a higher price for your ability to pick
I took it for granted that it would all need to be run through a
jointer. Do those effects from the exposure to sunlight, etc, run
deep? Based on the evidence, I think it's fair to say that the tree(s)
were cut down at least 10 years ago. Maybe that's not so much in tree
or dog-years. I get the feeling that the wood is stored in an outdoor
shelter. And ratts, that's the sort of question I should have already
asked... (however, you are teaching me).
I learned that cherry weighs about 3#/board-ft, so that provides another
weigh to measure it. OTOH, I suspect I will do probably do better just
offering a dollar amount for the whole lot--"as is, where is" (and that
seems more normal to ordinary folks). Because of my flexibility in most
aspects of this transaction, I would expect to get a price break
compared to the typical retail price.
On Wednesday, November 6, 2013 10:27:05 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:
, I would expect to get a price break compared to the typical retail price.
> > If necessary, I'll remind him that he told me that a neighbor gave him
the wood for free! : ) Cheers, Bill
If it's rough cut, it may not be kiln dried. If it's rough cut, at least s
ome would likely be warped and twisted, unless stickered really well. If it
's ever gotten wet, it may have water marks. These are aspects of lumber
I look for, here, in south Louisiana. Lumber in your area may be differe
I suspect it is a little warped and twisted. How much of that can I get
away with in an 6 foot 4/4 piece? Not too much, huh?
unless stickered really well. If it's ever gotten wet, it may have
water marks. These are aspects of lumber I look for, here, in south
Louisiana. Lumber in your area may be different.
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