I've cut dados into 2 X 4 construction timber frames (lap joints) for polyc
arbonate sections for a greenhouse-type structure (actually, a solar wood k
iln). I'm going to paint the frames before I assemble, but while I'm at Hom
e Depot to get the paint, I going to get some calk to seal the frame (wood
to polycarbonate) and I don't know if your basic DAP polymer sealant is goi
ng to do the job. I don't know if polycarbonate requires a special product,
and I'm guessing the structure is going to get pretty warm in the summer.
This seems more like a question about caulk than polycarbonate. Of
course, the latter scratches easily, which may be a factor in your long
term satisfaction. Suggest you investigate the types of caulk available.
On Friday, June 27, 2014 1:28:34 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
WOW! Probably one of the most useful charts I have seen on the net in years
! Thanks for that one, Karl. As you know I do a lot of waterproofing, roo
fing, and repairs. Sealants are a big part of what I do for not on those t
asks but for upgrades. When I replace glass in certain instances, I use po
lycarbonate. If I am working on a residential home door that has glass pan
els near a lock, I always replace with polycarbonate. And yet, never have
I seen that chart or one like it. Really great stuff. I am wondering, do
you think this
Note that many of those sealants in the description are silicone or acrylic
based. The poly is too hard, chemical resistant and smooth for long term
adhesion. It shrinks a tiny bit, the dirt gets in the joints and holds moi
sture and the joint fails. Most silicone sealants are not strongly UV resi
stant, and most acrylics are only mildly so.
Locally, we are using a BASF product, either Sonneborn NP1 or Sonolastic, d
epending on the engineering specs. Check this out:
It will stick to just about any substrate if it is clean, is almost inert w
hen applied, heat does not affect its performance at all, left as applied h
as extreme UV resistance, can be painted (only after about two weeks), and
has an elasticity factor of an incredible 35%!
We use it on everything. The downside? In the right hands a nice bead loo
ks OK. It is always colored, there is no "clear" so it is always noticeabl
e. It is really difficult to apply when cold, and cleanup can be a real bit
ch. Allowed to dry, it is almost impossible to get off any surface includi
ng the adjoining areas where you are working, and must be CUT off your tool
s. Once dry it is impervious to most solvents. It has a short shelf life,
so must be purchased as needed; I throw a few tubes a year away that have
hardened in my truck tool box over the summer. Also, at $8 a tube, you don
't just slather it anywhere, nor do you keep much on hand. But for what it
does, it is great.
I have never seen your chart. I hang onto anything that makes me look like
I know what I am doing, so that one goes in the file. Thanks!
On 6/27/2014 5:25 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I keep everything I can on DropBox that manufacturers like Simpson,
James Hardie, et al, publish on the use and installation of their
products. Comes in handy when you have to maintain a warranty on a
product. and the use of non compatible component may void it.
Job description, bearing heavily on the first word in the phrase "gofer
in charge", means I keep those 'keys to the kingdom' on DropBox where I
can access them on the phone/tablet when making those too frequent daily
trips to hardware.
I'm starting to like the retailer's phone apps too. Last week at Home
Depot I rolled up to the check out with a roll of red rosin paper that
had no SKU sticker. The cash register jockey was on her third try at
finding it in the register, and the homies behind me in line were
getting restless, when I grabbed my phone, did a quick search, and read
her the SKU off HD's IOS app.
Tech in the construction bidness ... gotta love it. ;)
+1 on NP1... great stuff. Seems like we talked about that before?
On Friday, June 27, 2014 10:22:36 AM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
kiln). I'm going to paint the frames before I assemble, but while I'm at H
ome Depot to get the paint, I going to get some calk to seal the frame (woo
d to polycarbonate) and I don't know if your basic DAP polymer sealant is g
oing to do the job. I don't know if polycarbonate requires a special produc
t, and I'm guessing the structure is going to get pretty warm in the summer
Any exterior caulk they sell at the big box store will do the job. Silicon
sticks to anything.
Check out SikaFlex.
Have offices in USA as well Europe.
Their tech support is in Detroit, are top notch and have 800#.
They have products for the industrial as well as the
I used a ton of their products building boat.
Have an extensive network of stocking distributors.
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
Polycarbonate is sensitive to many common solvents used in caulks and
sealants. You need to check the MSDS sheet of the proposed sealent
against the polycarbonate sheet manufacturer's technical guide if you
want to avoid microcracking and rapid degradation along the edge of the
sealent bead. The problem is significantly worse if exposed to UV.
However neutral cure silicones are generally safe.
Polycarbonate also has a high coefficient of thermal expansion so if the
grooves are too tight it will sheer the sealent. If loose enough to
allow for expansion, you then have the problem of shimming each sheet in
place so it is centered in the groove and doesn't bottom out anywhere.
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
< It has a short shelf life, so must be purchased as needed; I throw a few
tubes a year away that have hardened in my truck tool box over the summer.
Don't throw that stuff away. Cut the tube off of the hardened caulk. What
you now have is a new sander cleaning stick. It works as well as the ones
you buy, I'll bet.
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