Two-Part Epoxy?

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Anyone have any experience using two-part epoxy on painted metal? I need to "pull" some painted metal similar to automotive sheet metal into position and hot glue simply doesn't stick well enough.
Ultimately, I'd like to save the paint under and around the epoxy, but if I have to, I'll touch it up later. It's not critical but desirable...
Suggestions also welcome! I need at least 10-15 PSI pulling power without the "stuff" letting go from the surface. In other words, plenty of stick...
I'm crossposting (eegads!) to the woodworking group since you folks also use glues often and work with moth wood and metal lots...
Regards, Joe Agro, Jr. (800) 871-5022 (908) 542-0244 http://www.AutoDrill.com http://www.Multi-Drill.com
V8013-R
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Vacuum?
Regards,
Boris Mohar
Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca
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It'd be worth the effort to look up some specialty hot-melts before you give up.
One in particular comes to mind; it's a woodworker's hot-melt containing a portion of beeswax. You can smell it. It has AMAZING tack and flexibility, without that "plasticy" feel of most hot-melts.
I'll bet it would grab most any clean surface strongly enough to do what you want. It melts at about 275F, and is soluble in hot paraffin or polyester adipate.
LLoyd
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The problem with hot glue is, that it's cooling too fast down on metal. _Maybe_ preheating the matal works. Devcon or Loctite have decent two part epoxies. JB-Weld also is said to be excellent. I would try these. But would not relay on the paint sticking good enough on the metal.
Nick
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Not a flat enough surface and I don't have a vacuum unit powerful enough.
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Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
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Than try hot melt but like others said, preheat the surface. You may have to be prepared to repaint so why not scuff the paint.
Regards,
Boris Mohar
Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca
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I'm going to try the hot glue again tonight with semi-scuffed paint... But the glue was delaminating from the "puller" too so we shall see!
Next is a 2 part epoxy and the quest to find something that dissolves it but not paint... Last step is to simply remove the paint and all and do it right but expensive... :)
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Joe Agro, Jr.
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I need at least 10-15 PSI pulling power without

It depends on the epoxy - some works great and others don't. 15 psi is nothing if the correct type of epoxy is used. Could be a PITA to clean up since epoxy sticks so well - the good thing about it is it dries clear or slightly yellow.
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Right on, Fred! AFAIK there is no 2-part epoxy that can stick painted surfaces together and then be a cleaned off without a trace and/or damage to the paint. Please let us know if you find some, though. For your intended purpose I would try one of the "5-minute" epoxies and experiment with making the pull before the epoxy was fully cured. It might be possible to remove the partial cure with alcohol or some other solvent which doesn't attack painted surfaces.
Bob Swinney

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stuff you need.
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We tried the "Pops-a-Dent" system which is similar with no luck... Thus the inquiry. :)
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Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
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A while back Brownells sent out a gunsmithing tech note which discussed their epoxy called "Acraglass" and its development. According to them it's not as good as the stuff on the space shuttle but far better than the common store brands. You might want to give their tech support line a call and see what they say.
Brownells Inc. 200 South Front Street Montezuma, Iowa 50171
Tech: Open 8:30 am to 4:30 pm (U.S. CST) Technical Support: 800-741-0015
Steve.

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Devcon makes a good 5 min. epoxy......System Three makes a 24hr one called T-88 -Really amazing stuff.
System Three - www.epoxyhelp.com I've bought it from www.rockler.com - they have stores too.....
Either way, I can't see how you're gonna get it off the paint though. It might even pull the paint off....
HTH
Jeff
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If the paint goes..., It goes.... No hole is the absolute goal and paint preserved is the dream goal.
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Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
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If you only need 10-15 psi, try a rubber suction cup. No hole, saves paint, and has a lot of pull.
--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
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The best epoxy I've ever used is Hysol brand. It was the prefered stuff for communications satellites I worked on, and I've very rarely had it fail in home applications. In general, the slower the cure, the stronger the epoxy. 5 minute stuff is usually much weaker than the slower setting ones. Surface prep is always important.
Doug White
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Ah! Now I understand! There is a special glue for _exactly_ that purpose. Go to a body work shop that is quite innovative and let them show you their repair set for small dents.
No, please. Don't ask me for the name. But you could ask in a more car related NG.
HTH, Nick
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I think that is the exact glue that is failing me now... I bought a "Pops-a-Dent" paintless dent removal kit to try. The hot glue gun glue... Say that ten times fast ... just delaminates from either the puller or the paint.
Someone else suggested ePoxy then dry ice to get the epoxy off... Might try that tonight.
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Joe Agro, Jr.
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Ah, sorry, didn't understand this*)

Greasy fingers? Greasy paint? Hot glue gun not hot enough? Anyhow, this kind of glueing will _only_ hold if you pull dead staight. A bit of tilting and off it goes.
*) OK, sometimes I'm a slow-brainer. But most times it's due to language problems.
Nick
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No apology necessary. The thread is getting longish now and people will soon be asking me the basics again anyhow. :)

I didn't remove the wax from the paint... But the glue itself was splitting between the painted surface and the puller itself so it wasn't adhesion that I had much of a problem with... It seems to be the actual tensile strength of the glue... I let it cool in 70 degree weather for 15 minutes prior to pulling too...
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Joe Agro, Jr.
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