On Sunday, April 10, 2016 at 2:06:32 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
You are right, I didn't post any dimensions, so here they are:
The interior of the drawers are 36" wide, 16 1/4" deep at the outer
edges, 18 1/4" deep at the center.
I clamped the bottom of the drawers to the back of box in three spots,
completely closing the gap along the back. The front and sides of the
bottoms are fully seated in the grooves of the box. I placed a 36"
straight edge across the bottom of the interior of the drawers and
measured the gap between the straight edge and the bottom of the drawer
at the center of the bottom.
3/8" on one drawer, 1/2" on the other. I'm guessing that those are
considerable gaps, probably too much for the dampening and weighting
On Sunday, April 10, 2016 at 7:35:44 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
No, not at all. That degree of bow is a nominal curve, in both drawers, an
d should be easy to reverse, to some extent, using the wetted technique. I
f it bent one way, it should be able to be bent the other way. If still in
doubt, bend it slowly, over time, then allow to dry. At least see what e
ffect that has.
On Sunday, April 10, 2016 at 9:06:31 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
If it bent one way, it should be able to be bent the other way. If still
in doubt, bend it slowly, over time, then allow to dry.
Yeah, it took ~100 years to bend one way, and my daughter doesn't graduate
for another month, so I have lot's of time to reverse the bend. ;-)
So what about simply leaving the bottom in the drawer, wetting the raw bott
and then placing the drawer face down under a table with an upside down dea
man wedged between table and the center of the bottom - over correcting the
curve - and letting it dry? I'd use the "bottom" of the deadman to spread t
pressure out (slightly) as opposed to it being a single pressure point.
On Sunday, April 10, 2016 at 8:32:56 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
It doesn't matter what technique you use to reverse (over correct) the bow/
curve. If need be, try several techniques, see which one might work the b
Again, as you bend it (slowly), listen for small/tiny cracking sounds. Be
nd the wood slowly (over a few hours, maybe), rewetting it periodically (if
need be), if those small cracking sounds are heard. Old air dried cured
wood will act like kiln dried wood.... sometimes difficult to rebend/reshap
e, with either wet or steam bending. In these difficult cases, you heard
those small cracking sounds, as it's being bent/shaped.
On Monday, April 11, 2016 at 8:02:34 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
if need be), if those small cracking sounds are heard. Old air dried cure
d wood will act like kiln dried wood.... sometimes difficult to rebend/resh
ape, with either wet or steam bending. In these difficult cases, you hear
d those small cracking sounds, as it's being bent/shaped.
Thanks for the advice. I'll rig up something that I can extend downward in
small increments to apply pressure as I listen to the drawer bottom.
On Sat, 9 Apr 2016 18:09:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
I recently reinforced sagging drawer bottoms - on a modern dresser -
from the inside of the drawers ! I had some large < 1 1/2 inch >
hardwood dowel that I ripped in half - the halves were surprisingly
stiff & strong - placed them inside & screwed in from the drawer back
; toe-nail-screwed from inside the drawer into the drawer front ;
and up through the drawer bottom. The round-top of the dowel
looked ok inside the drawer, too ...
The crappy drawer construction made it difficult to fix any other way
- - you might have better options with a solid antique.
The hardwood brace/support also serves to strengthen
the drawer structure somewhat - joining the drawer-front
to the drawer back at the center.
All the other discussion about just reversing the drawer-bottom
curve, without adding bracing - seems like it might be temporary ?
On Monday, April 11, 2016 at 8:47:58 AM UTC-5, email@example.com wrote:
Reshaping, only, is not always temporary, if the over correction is sufficient to maintain a flattened result.
I'd agree that extra support would assure further stability. A narrow metal angle iron type bracing, under neath, would help.
I think someone mentioned placing a cross piece/divider inside the drawers, to function similarly. A divider is a good idea, also, and probably wouldn't look unsightly, either.
On 4/9/2016 9:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> The drawer knobs were a little loose, so I removed the "screws"
> planning to add some glue and toothpicks to tighten them back up. It
> turns out that the "screws" are actually bolts that thread into metal
> inserts in the knobs. The inserts have a pair of points that dig into
> the drawer front to prevent them from turning. Well, that's the theory
> The problem is that once the knobs get loose, they spin and the points
> carve a circular groove in the drawer front leaving nothing for the
> points to hold onto. Some of the inserts are also stripped, so I have > a
some work to do on the knobs.
The inserts in the knobs look like standard modern day Tee-nuts. Don't
know when they were invented, but the two pin ones are older than the 4
pin nuts. At any rate, you shouldn't need the pins at all to stop
spinning. Current day knobs just tighten down and don't spin. If these
don't tighten down enough to stop spinning, I'd think the bolt is too
long, or the knob is spinning around the tee-nut. If spinning around the
tee-nut some epoxy should fix it.
The picture indicates the bottom is either nailed to the bottom, or
fitted in groves on 3 sides, and open/nailed to the back, so removal
should be easy. I would remove the bottom, flip it over and screw it
wherever nails were used previously to attach it.
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
On Sunday, April 10, 2016 at 12:21:25 PM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
Having used my share of Tee-nuts, I can say with confidence that these are
similar but a far cry from "standard modern day Tee-nuts". The pins on a
Tee-nut point in the same direction as the threaded shaft and are used to
hold the tee-nut in the material that the tee-nut is in.
These inserts have the points pointed in the opposite direction so that they
stick into the material that the object with the insert is attached to.
Maybe the bolt stretched over the past 100+ years? (kidding!)
Actually, on the ones that won't tighten down, it appears that the
inserts are stripped. I used the standard glue and toothpick method
and I was able to crank down on the bolts with substantial force.
We'll see how long they hold.
I wish removal was easy. I tried to remove one of the bottoms and it
certainly doesn't slide right out. The other one seems looser but I
haven't removed the nails yet to see if it jammed like the other one.
In any case, the interiors of the bottoms (and of the entire drawer) are
finished as shown here:
There is also damage (grooves) on the bottoms where they have dragged
on the metal tabs used as stops. The grooves are too deep to be sanded
away and besides, I'm sure I would never be able to match the bottom
finish to the side finish *and* make it look 100+ years old.
good to keep nice stuff in the family
was going to put drawer glides on some old drawers that just slide
on bare wood now
but i rubbed wax on the both parts and the drawers move so easy they
almost fly all the way out until you get used them sliding so easy
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