Tung oil -- 2 questions

I'm finishing a small chest I made from cherry and want to use tung oil. On the inside, should I give it a couple of coats of shellac as a sealer?
I'm using a pair of my jockey's to apply the tung oil. How long should I wait before I wear them again. A little spontaneous combustion may not be a bad thing ;) -- Ed snipped-for-privacy@snet.net http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
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If you use them dirty, you can easily darken the oil if you feel tithe color needs an adjustment.

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I've just been reading Bill Knight & Bill Mende's work on 18th century muzzle-loading rifles. After treating raw powder horns with verdigris (copper acetate) as a preservative, they were bright green (hence "green horns"). A final colouring was done by "dunging" them (burial in a midden), or else by applying extracted Manure Salts.
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I have been using a coat or two of tung oil, letting it dry. Then a couple of coats of super blonde shellac. Nice depth and easy to do.
Ken Gunter
CH-47D Chinook Pilot http://www.ch47.org snipped-for-privacy@ch47.org

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couple
I'm going to try it on a small piece to see how it looks. Even if I don't do the chest that way, I'll know for the future.
Thanks, Ed
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wrote:

Good idea, if you're not oiling the inside.
Use a brush for inside corners of boxes, not a pad. Synthetic watercolour brushes and fibres like "Golden Taklon" are best for shellac.

Jockeys are OK for oil, but use boxer shorts for shellac. Longer staple cotton, and they wear better.
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wrote:

Just curious, Ed...why aren't you gonna do the entire chest the same way?
I'll be curious as to the answers you get. I'm putting in a bunch of replacement windows...and I'm gonna tung oil the frames that I built. I'm wondering if I should put a coat of poly on them.

Can't help you here, Ed. I usually use Kotex for the main areas...and a Tampax for the inside corners. But, hey...that's just me.
Have a nice week...
Trent
Cat...the OTHER white meat!
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On
I figure the outside will be nice with just the oil. I'm concerned that the inside may weep or the contents pick up something from the oil. That is why I thought of sealing with shellac. If other's experience proves otherwise, I'll use tung oil only. Ed
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<snip>

that the

Tung oil does cure. I find it dry to the touch within 1 day in my typical thin coat approach (wipe-off). I've read it takes several weeks to fully cure. So I wouldn't worry about weeping. The smell does linger a while, so absorbent items in a closed box could pick up a scent. I don't find the smell offensive, but wouldn't necessarily want people to think it's a cologne I'm wearing either ;-)
If it's a small box you could use polymerized tung oil. It's much pricier, but builds much faster and is much more durable according to Jewitt's book. I find it has less odor too. It cures very rapidly, really need to wipe off in 10 minutes, if you wait 30 minutes it's pretty sticky.
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