I'm having trouble installing a zero clearance insert in my Rigid
TS3650. I'm using a rigid titanium thin kerf blade and when I try to
lower the blade and then set the insert in - the blade is a little to
high and the insert does not sit in the insert.
Has anyone encountered this issue? I'm stuck.
Many saws are like this.
Many insert manufacturers route a slot on the bottom for the blade to fit
You can also route a slot on the bottom where the blade will cut through
deep enough that the insert will set over the blade.
This is not unique to the Ridgid. One way is to use an 8" dado blade
to start the cut, then switch to the 10" once you have enough
clearance. However I found on my Ridgid that I had to bring the dado
all the way through by quite a bit to get clearance. A 9" blade would
work better but there's not usually much other reason to have one
Another way is to leave the factory insert in place and put your zero
clearance insert on top of it. You can use the fence to help align
it, but your fence would have to be exactly parallel to the insert.
Yet another way would be to start it with a router.
Use double sided tape to secure the ZC insert to the top of the original
insert taking care to line it up accurately. Raise the blade the amount
necessary to get the clearance you need. Once you have the clearance
put the ZC insert directly in the saw to complete the cut.
I don't own a table saw new enough that anyone premakes zero clearance
inserts for me, but it's my understanding that the insert has a bit of
a"T" shape, and if you flip it over, then the long part of the "T"
stands proud of the table instead of resting below the top.
So doing the "flip, rotate, cut, flip, rotate" bit might get you an
additional 1/4" or so of room.
Sure, I think most saws are like that. Just put a smaller blade with the same
kerf on your saw until you get your initial slot cut, then go back to your
normal blade. I used a dado blade to start mine.
It's a very common problem with many makes of saw. The classic solution
is to temporarily install a smaller blade, perhaps an outer blade
from a dado set. What I do, is lower blade, pull up the stock insert
slightly, then bring the fence over to touch it. Lock the fence down
and drop the stock insert back into place. Put the unslotted insert
against the fence and on top of the stock insert. Clamp a block to
the fence above the new insert and another block in front of it.
Use a push stick or block to hold the inset against the fence.
Slowly raise the blade & cut the slot. Lower the blade & remove the
newly slotted insert. If you have more than one blank insert to slot,
once you have the fence set and the blocks clamped in place, you can
do them one after the other without having to change anything.
There is always an easy solution to every human problem -- neat,
plausible, and wrong." (Mencken)
Yep. Same thing happened with my Delta. I just lowered the blade all
the way, turned on the saw, and very carefully lowered the insert onto
the spinning blade.
I didn't much care for that, but it worked out fine- it'll still be
low enough so that you don't need to worry about nipping off the tips
of your fingers.
It's nice to know I'm not the only insane one.
I set the front edge of the insert into the recess and gently pivot the back
down onto the running blade. If you take care to insure that your hands are
well anchored to the table and your body weight (followthrough) is not aimed
at the blade, there is no risk of cutting a finger. There is, however, a
risk of the insert being thrown. Stay out the throw lane.
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
You have a million responses or so it seems. Try the simple way: go
spend $15 or so for a cheap 8-1/2" miter saw blade. Mount that first,
raise it all the way, drop it, and mount a 10" blade to make the final
Unless you have a miter saw that takes 8-1/2" blades, hang it on the
wall until you need it again.
Several people are writing of using fingers on the insert during the
Clamp boards across it to keep it from rising or run the fence to just
shy of where the blade will penetrate--you had better be sure of just
where it WILL penetrate unless you want the fence chewed up and, quite
probably, the blade ruined. I prefer to run a board at the front and a
board at the back, clamped at table sides.
Maybe I need to clarify a little-
My Delta has a set screw on the back of the insert, and a small pin
that hooks under the table on the front. When I suggested dropping
the insert onto the blade, I had the pin hooked in to make sure it
didn't come flying forward, and then stopped the saw and installed the
set screw before raising the blade. I thought they were all like
that, but apparently I was incorrect. Clamping boards across seems
like a good solution with what you're describing.
Same problem here. What I did is to first install one blade from my stacked
dado set (smaller diameter) to make an initial cut in the insert - just
enough to give starting clearance for the full sized blade. Then install the
regular blade and go from there.
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