TS Lubrication

[TinWoodsmn]

Does anyone have a favorite lubrication for the blade height and angle setting gears on a cabinet saw? Anything to steer clear of? Best way to clean out the old sawdust?

Thanks.

Tin Woodsmn

[Markem]

TFE based lubes, oils and sawdust do mix very well to a lovely paste. Vacum, then don dust mask, and blast away with compressed air (2 20 inch fans blowing out the garage doors).

Mark (sixoneeight) = 618

[Swingman]

Boeshield T9 works real well for me, any lubricant that doesn't dry or contains silicone; air compressor.

[Leon]

I blow out and then blast with Brake Cleaner from an aerosol can. Follow that with BoeShield T9.

[C & E]

I suppose that you're speaking of how to clean the large, threaded rods. I used a couple of brushes to know off the grease/ sawdust combo and then, dipped a narrow brush in some mineral spirits to further clean off the remaining grease, drying with a rag. To lubricate I used powdered graphite and rand the assembly through its range of motion.

[Pounds on Wood]

I just use a block of paraffin wax (canning wax) and rub along the lead screws. It does the job and does not show much love for sawdust. Boeshield seems too light bodied for lubricating a lead screw. It would be good to prevent rust and might be good combined with wax.

[BobS]

A formula I've been using for a number of years now is:

Johnson's or any paste wax similar to it Graphite powder - small tube from auto store used for lubing locks. Couple of drops of mineral spirits Baby jar

Fill baby jar about 3/4 full of paste wax, add all the powdered graphite - it's probably about a 1/2 teaspoon in the tube. Add a few drops of mineral spirits and start mixing (screwdriver works well) until the wax and graphite are thoroughly blended and you have a completely black mix. Add only a drop or two of mineral spirits at a time as needed so you can mix the wax and graphite. If you get to much, don't worry, just set the jar aside with the top off for a few hours and the mineral spirits will evaporate off. You want the consistency of soft butter for applying it.

Clean the gears - others gave a lot of good ideas and then use a small, stiff brush like an acid brush, to apply the wax combo. Sawdust does not stick to the combination and although wax itself acts as a lubricant, in this case it's the carrier for the graphite. The small jar will last a long, long time. If it dries to much - add a drop of mineral spirits and stir in.

Bob S.

[B A R R Y]

I really like "White Lightning", a wax based chain lube available in bicycle shops. WL dries to a non-sticky waxy film that flakes off as you use it.

Great stuff!

Barry

[Swingman]

BoeShield T9 _is_ combined with wax ... that's one of the reasons it works well for this application.

[Sailaway]

BobS Wrote: >A formula I've been using for a number of years now is: >

I lubed mine with a powder called Molylube from Bel-Ray. Had a gallon can of it so I thought I'd give it a try, and it seems to work great. I don't know what's in it - its a gray powder that seems to spread like a virus and gets on everything while you're working with it, but its really slippery and yet sticks well to the threads. Anyone out there know what the composition of this stuff is?

[Joe Gorman]

Looks like it's a trade secret

don't breathe it or use instead of visine. Joe

[hylourgos]

Fish tape lube w/ graphite

contains wax, is extra slippery, does not attract dust, long lasting, inexpensive and abundant

[Enoch Root]

secret? Molybdenum disulfide (a variation on lithium grease?), and silica.

er

[Joe Gorman]

I was referring to Section 2, which lists the ingredients. Joe

[Enoch Root]

>>>>>>>> Trade secret? Molybdenum disulfide (a variation on lithium grease?), >> and silica. >>

Sorry, I looked up some other product. It's a powder, but it's not Bel-Ray. I had no idea you could hide your components from an MSDS page. All it says is metallic oxides, but there are six (?IIRC) other secret spices even if one is Molybdenum disulfide.

er

[George E. Cawthon]

You had a gallon? Molylube is probably just a brand name, but It is probably just molybdenum disulfide.

Molybdenum disulfide is usually ground much finer than graphite and is a way superior lubricant. Used as a dry lubricant in lots of applications from sliding joints to bullets. Sometimes in an alcohol or other base that evaporates.

[Sailaway]

I just looked at the can and found the part #: Molylube 16. It is a powder, not a grease like in the above msds. The grease form may be a variation on the one I have, and the petroleum content of the grease may account for the off gasses and fire hazard warnings. It looks to be a fairly old can, so maybe they aren't using the #16 designation anymore since it isn't listed on their web site. Since I don't know what's in it I use a respirator when I am working with it.

[Bugs]

I lubed mine with a powder called Molylube from Bel-Ray. Had a gallon can of it so I thought I'd give it a try, and it seems to work great. I

don't know what's in it - its a gray powder that seems to spread like a

virus and gets on everything while you're working with it, but its really slippery and yet sticks well to the threads. Anyone out there know what the composition of this stuff is?

Molybdenum Disulfide. Used to lubricate gun mechanisms without gumming them up. Good stuff, and expensive. Bugs

[RM MS]

Johnson's paste wax in the yellow can is cheap and easy to apply with a small paintbrush. Sawdust is not attracted to it as to oil