Thanks but I don't have the space and even if I did I'd settle for nothing less than the automatic one. They are a joy especially if someone else schleps the sheet to the saw :)
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dadiOH ____________________________
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The rails are just standard steel stock, 1.5" angle iron and 2" x 3" tubing. I was able to pick up what was needed for about $35.00 at a steel supplier from their cut-off/scrap pile.
Never because my fence only goes to 30", actually a little less. I would rather have it than not so if you have an option get the 50"
OK.. I'm game..
so 1.5" angle for the front and back rails.. need to drill a few holes for attaching to table and extension table. These don't seem to need to be critically staight, but fairly straight across the top would be best. Is
1.5" angle iron 1.5" high and 1.5" wide? Hmm.. just eyeballing that, I think the commercial fences are more like 2" or at least thicker stock than standard angle iron -- 3/16" thick or better.Now the 2x3 tube needs to be pretty flat and straight on the fence bearing side. I need to drill holes in the bottom of the angle iron and tap some holes into the tube. That's manageable I suppose.
I just when down to the shop and measured:
Back "L" rail - 1.5" x 1.5" x 3/8" thick Front "L" rail - 2.5" x 2.5" x 3/8" thick Front rectangular tubing - 2"h x 3"w x just under 1/8" thick
Tap the tubing, drill the holes on the "L" stock oversized to allow for adjustment.
When I ordered my saw I ordered the Jet Deluxe Commercial fence. A long story but in the end I ended up with Jet's "HomeShop", "Commercial" and "Deluxe Commercial" fences. They all use the same rails.
The "HomeShop" fence was used to upgrade a friend's old Craftsman saw.
Jet's tech support told me that the rails are standard steel stock. (They don't machine it any straighter/flatter than it comes from their supplier).
Go for it!
***** CORRECTION *****
Both the front and back "L" rails are 3/16" thick....
Measure twice, type once! ;-(
Might be cheaper for me to get a 20' stock of 2.5" x 2.5" angle.
Any reason you can see why the back rail cannot be 2.5"?
I assume they just do it that way to save $s, but it may cost be about the same to get >
The back rail never touches the fence. It is used to hold the table and table extensions in line. 2.5" angle would have to be drilled so that the top edge of the "L" didn't extend above the table. There's not much room between the rear 1.5" angle and the blade guard/splitter support arm. It seems it might be a tight squeeze to clear the support for the blade guard/splitter with the blade tilted to 45 degrees as the support arm swings up slightly as the blade if tilted.
I'll try to stick w/ spec then..
2.5" angle on front 1.5" angle on rear 2x3" tube as guide
Given that you can buy them already with a nice powder coating on them, why would you want to ???
You could visit the Biesemeyer site at one time and check out factory "blems" but apparently "Black & Darker" has removed that "feature".
Being "alert" would be better... Lowe's has been selling 30" Biesemeyer fences for under $100 for the last few months......
I got > I'm going to start another thread asking about making this myself. I'm a
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