TS Dado Stops

Anyone got a quick and dirty way to put Tab (Dado) stops on a Table Saw. I want to cut some Dados in 2x3s every 16" or so. The Dados are about 2.5" wide, so will require multiple passes of the blade.
I just used the rooter to do something similar for an outside project, but it was painfully slow. Plus the damn bit kept creeping out of the collet.
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Hi Bill,
How about running the dado the entire length, then gluing pieces back in where you want them. This would be quick (I don't know about dirty).
Lou

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Sorry, I was thinking the other direction.
However, I did something similar when I made some half lapped lattice panels for the garden a couple of years ago. I use a dado in the RAS with a fixed piece of wood as a index. I would cut 5 or so at a time, move the group to the index, drop it down and cut the next slot.
You might be able to do something similar on the TS with something like a wide box joint jig with an indexing pin.
Just a thought.
Lou

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How 'bout a dado X-cut sled with a tab screwed on where ya need it?
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It kinda depends on how long your 2x3s are. How about using some masking tape on the tablesaw mitre guide marked with your 16" and 2.5" settings. If your 2x3 aren't too long, you'd be able to use a reference mark on it to align to the mitre guide markings.
wrote:

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Thanks I normally use the fence and eyeball these. But the length of the 2x3 doesn't allow for this. I guess I'll clamp a jig to my miter. Unfortunately I don't have a miter slot (Ryobi), so I'll have to improvise.
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wrote:

I use a story stick (or the first cut 2x3) with the grooves cut.
Place the groove right on the blade, set the fence, use a sled to move the work. I've cut tons of cabinet sides using this method, with great success.
Making ALL the cuts at once, before moving the fence, helps, too.
Barry
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On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 23:47:48 GMT, Ba r r y

I forgot to mention, for long parts, cut all the cuts in one end, flip the parts and work back to zero. You can usually do 8-9' parts this way.
Barry
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Barry,
I don't have an extension table, so I wouldn't have enough room between the blade and the fence to do more than a couple of cuts. But this gives me an idea though. I could raise the blade and set the groove on top of the fence and put a block under the other end of the board (SMT) to keep it level. Perhaps this is what you meant.
Thanks.
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wrote:

It wasn't, but it's an excellent idea that I plan to file away. <G>
Barry
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Bill Stock wrote:

Make a sled and clamp a block where you want the stop. Use another block (of appropriate width) to cut the other side of the dado. Then take out the stock between the cuts. If you want to get fancy, you could make a stop similar to:
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/t-stop.html
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA
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