TS alignment

I recently purchased a new TS so I had to align the rip fence and check blade alignment to miter track.
I pulled out my trust TS-aligner (see my review below) and I was done in no time. Not a single test cut needed! And I KNOW I am dead balls accurate.
I also had to make a new cross-cut sled because my old one no longer fits the miter track layout (uses both). Again, it was a piece of cake with my TS-aligner and I KNOW I am dead balls accurate
If you don't have one of these it's REALLY worth looking into one.
Of course no affiliation, blah, blah, blah. Just a VERY satisfied end user.
Got questions let me know.
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_aligner.htm
(NO, this was not an invitation for Leon to blast me.) ;^)
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www.garagewoodworks.com



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I have had one for years. I do like it. Very easy to determine if you are out of alinement on the table saw etc. I do most of my wood working with a digital caliber as I figure if I measure these things in thousands and I am a little I off I really am still dead on wood working wise. About every 6 month I spend a week and re-tweek all my tools. I use the TS aligner then. Here is a link to some of my projects.
www.howardboehm.com
currently working on my Home Bar. I need to wash all that saw dusk down
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Nice work! I would love to make a bar one day. It's on my to-do list, but my wife's to-do list is much longer <G>.
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I think you are going to find that you are not going to need to use it as often with the new saw except perhaps for setting up angles between 0 and 45 degrees. How is the new saw working out for you?
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I also use it at the jointer to guarantee square. The saw is working out great. I actually 'feel' much safer when using it over my old one. The riving knife is awesome! Hopefully I won't get kicked in the gut ever again (just thinking about my kickback my stomach hurts).
I only have one 220V circuit so I have to keep switching back and forth between the bandsaw when using both machines.
It is an absolute pleasure to use. I haven't thrown a breaker yet either (my old machine threw them all the time). It cuts through 12/4 walnut like butter. Not sure if I need a new blade or not yet, I am using a CMT combo blade that I like a lot (it might need sharpening though).
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Wow that "feel safer" comment brings back memories. When I upgraded to a cabinet saw, although with out a riving knife, I felt the same way. IMHO the more powerful motor is safer. I find that the beginnings of kick back happen less often with the more powerful saw. I believe that with more power the blade tends to actually cut/knaw through the piece rather than slow down, snag, and throw the piece. Of course the riving knife helps to keep the situation from going there in the first place. I would love to find a riving knife add on for my saw.

DARN the luck LOL... I hav to do the same between the TS, band saw and laner. I guess we could wire a three outlet pig tail to supply power to all the equipment.

Yeah the power cuts through any thing. I have resawed 6" wide Ipe with the blade a full 3" deep in the cut. No problem. You have to learn to look for other signs. A rougher cut than you like, tear out, burning etc. I use Forrest blades and am always amazed how much more smooth/creamy the cut feels after having them resharpened. For hard woods I only use a Forrest WWII reg kerf 40 tooth blade. I have 2. If my stock is not perfectly straight I might have to make a pass or two with a cabinet scraper to clean up a ripped edge. Crosscuts never need more attention except to sand for a consistent surface as the rest of the piece. Crosscuts come out almost burnished.
Keep us posted as you become more acquainted with the new saw. It's a fine piece of equipment.
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I thought about doing that actually. Do you know if this could cause any problems? Obviously we couldn't (shouldn't) run more than one tool at a time.
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If you got the first 220 plug either you or your electrican can extend the run and add several boxes with 220 plugs. your not running two machines at the same time so it works very well. When we wired up my workshop we have a 220 run with a junction box every 6ft set up for 220. This is all the way around. The additional cost for seven or 8 extra boxes and plugs and wiring is only about 60 bucks. Any tool I replace I get a 220 version if its available. Worth the effort.
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Done correctly it should not be a problem providing you don't over tax the arrangement.
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On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 10:47:34 -0600, "Leon"

You don't want to run an energy deficit.
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wrote:

According to my lectric bill I do every month. ;~)
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The riving knife is one of the things that impressed me about your saw. That, and the solid way it felt when operating the various parts. The only other saw that gave me the same feeling, other than one of those European combo's, was the Canadian made General.
I have a Unisaw, yet I'm envious.
Y'all have a good evening ... it about time to visit Margaritaville on the front balcony, while the sun sets on a beautiful day.
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Last update: 12/14/07
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You could always add a Bies snap-in splitter, or a splitter in a zero clearance insert.
But Stoutman has that "new saw smell" that makes me envious, too! <G>
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wrote:

Ah shucks. You guys are making me blush. <G>
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wrote:

But but but the snap in and zero clearance splitter is just not as elegant.
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Sat, Feb 23, 2008, 4:11pm From: .@. (Garage_Woodworks) I recently purchased a new TS so I had to align the rip fence and check blade alignment to miter track. <snip>
At $63.48, I'll pass.
JOAT 10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President - Bumper Sticker I do not have a problem with a woman president - except for Hillary.
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