TS Aligner jr.

[Charlie Maus]

I seriouly thinking about purchasing a TS Aligner jr to set up my table saw (Unisaw). I was wonding if anyone had any thoughts on the upgrade to the gauge(Fowler).

[David Zaret]

i bought one about 6 months ago when i got my general 650. i really like it. personally i think it's a worthwhile investment, but probably not entirely necessary.

i also got the 6" square they offer and the 45 triangle. certainly the most accurate squares i have in my shop.

good luck,

-- dz

Charlie Maus wrote:

[B a r r y]

I don't think you need the upgrade, because the TS Jr. isn't needed at all.

A combination square, with the only requirement that it locks the blade securely, a Sharpie, and some scrap wood are all you *really* need to set up a saw. Check your local library for "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking" and/or "Tune Up Your Tools".

Let the flame war begin.

I've had several saws, and now have a General 650, and have NEVER needed a $150+ alignment tool.

Googling on Table saw alignment might not be a good idea, either.

Barry

[igor]

I had very good luck on my first TS, last summer, using an inexpensive dial indicator. Attached it to my miter guage to set up both the blade and fence alignments. Got the indicator with a magnetic base from Grizzly - best deal at that time. In fact, the threading on the metal post that screws into the mag base actually fit right into a hole in my miter guage that came with my DW TS. For the amount I have used it, the indicator has been my best investment. (I can't seem to connect to the Grizzly website right now or I'd include a link.) Just make sure that your miter guage is tight in the slot or be sure to put side pressure on it when you slide it to keep it consistent. YMMV. -- Igor

[bridger]

the chinese indicators work fine and are plenty accurate enough for setup of woodworking machines. the downside is that they are a bit more likely to fail with rough use and probably will wear out sooner. unless you are going to be using it a lot I probably wouldn't bother.

[CW]

The Fowler indicator is also sold as a Baker. They are made in China with the Fowler/Baker name.

[bridger]

fowler manufactures their indicators in germany.

I can't find anything on Fowler/Baker.

[CW]

It's either Fowler or Baker. The last Fowler I saw was Chinese. I've seen several, actually. They may make some in Germany but that is probably the spendy ones. Some of the Chinese ones are quite good. I've had a couple of them for about ten years. On gets severe duty (on mills an lathes while running) and is still doing fine.

[Charlie Maus]

Thanks, that's what I was looking for.

Charlie

[Ed Bennett]

Hi CW! Hope all is going well.

Perhaps Fred Jr. will step in here...maybe not. He's been known to contribute in the metalworking groups from time to time.

Fowler buys their instruments from manufacturers all over the world. Yes, the low end instruments are from China. But, the same can be said for the low end Starrett instruments (I fell off my chair when I saw this on a 6" calipers that I purchased). Other Fowler instruments are German, Swiss, American, Japanese, etc. The one that I buy isn't marked with a country of origin (not sure how this works). In any case, the instruments are all manufactured to Fowler specifications and Fred has told me that they are 100% inspected.

My experience with literally thousands of indicators gives me a basis for judging quality without regard to country of origin. The Fowler indicator that I buy is clearly a step above the MHC (China) indicator that I also offer. It definitely falls in the category of a "mid-range" indicator alongside the Teclock and Peacock (both fine Japanese) models. I've seen some Bakers labeled as "Made in India", others "made in China". Most come without marking (must be some FTC rule that I don't know about). Even still, the quality is consistently mid-range. The design is significantly different from the Fowler so I'm not inclined to say that they come from the same factory/manufacturer.

There is a whole range of quality coming from China. Most share the same basic design but the quality of components and craftsmanship varies tremendously. There are a whole lot of them that I just won't waste any money on. I've had the best of luck with indicators bearing the "MHC" brand. Since each indicator is calibrated to the Jr. that it ships with, I end up testing every single one that I sell. Yes, I do find defective units but it's pretty rare (far less than 1%) and they definitely don't go out with any of my Aligners.

Hope it helps.

To comment on what others have said in the thread...

I encourage people to try out the "dial indicator on a stick" solution. It's a heck of a lot better than subjective "feel the rub" and "hear the scrape" techniques. And, you'll learn a whole lot of new stuff for a pretty small investment (always a plus). I've even devoted some space for it on my web site:

's true, precision alignment instruments that use dial indicators are not absolutely necessary for the production of high quality woodwork. Face it, people have been doing fine woodworking for centuries without dial indicators. But, consider that they've been doing it without power tools too. So, tablesaws, routers, drill presses, planers, jointers, etc. are also just as unnecessary for the production of high quality woodwork. Precision dial indicator jigs are a lot like power tools: they just make the job go much faster and easier. Some people like fine results and are always searching for better ways to achieve them. Some people derive more enjoyment from developing specific skills with a specific set of tools (i.e. "the process") and fine results are the basis for measuring their progress. You decide what you want out of your woodworking persuits and let this guide your needs.

Thanks, Ed Bennett [e-mail]

[GerryG]

With about 5 years use, I'd agree with David. The indicator has an accuracy and precision approaching your setup repeatability, so a better one won't help. I do like the thick square they offer, but the really best item is the

45 triangle. It's large enough to calibrate the Aligner, and the combination is all that you need for the TS.

As it happens, I just set up a new shop after moving and reassembling all the equipment. For the TS AlignerJr, cut a piece of melamine a couple of inches larger. Spot and counterbore three holes for the bearings. That allows you to register against a flat surface without having to remove the bearings. Melamine is flat enough that small, and calibration is on the work surface. This allowed easily walking around to the jointer, router table, drill press, BS and others for quick alignment.

Flame guard statement - Of course, how accurate you need something depends entirely on what you're doing with it, and the tool's available precision.

GerryG

[Grant P. Beagles]

Although I agree that a good square and Frid's book are all you need, the TS Aligner Jr. makes some of it easier. You can also use it to set up a drill press, precision bevel cuts on the table saw, and many other applications (i haven't looked at the video in a while, so I cannot remember all of them!)

Grant

B a r r y wrote: