Actually, not sure if anybody makes one now, but in the early 70s-80s
time frame Delta introduced precisely that....unfortunately, I can't
even recall at the moment what it was they called it. It didn't make a
big hit and didn't last very long. I saw one in an auction list not
terribly long ago but don't have a link at the moment, sorry...
Maybe one of the other oldtimers will recall them. If I get some time
I'll try to find one of the old catalogs or do a google and see if can
find any links to the past...
Never owned one, did get chance to use one once't. Handy and useful but
not indispensible, obviously. IIRC, the cutter head cutting radius was
about 8" or less. It used a set of inset knives on a surface plate and
was able to joint very tiny and thin pieces that couldn't be considered
on a normal jointer since there was a support plate behind the knives
instead of the open gap on a jointer table.
Well, I did manage to get things so that they are square within about
1/32-->1/16 of an inch which is close enough for what I'm doing. Iwas pushing the piece against the fence and not the table, and
eventually, with a lot of work, got 3 legs done. I need to invest in
a bigger, better jointer for projects this size.
Thank you all for all the help.
Did you try the test on a couple pieces of (say), 4x4 pine (could even
build it up out of a couple scrap tubafor for the purpose) to check on
the accuracy of the jointer/fence setup? Should be much easier to
machine and two placed facing each other on the flat surface of the saw
table or similar should match precisely or show double the error...
If that doesn't work well, then the setup just isn't right (or the fence
moves or something...)
Eat your Wheaties.
A 4x4 hunk of maple is hefty and will require you exert considerable
force to hold the piece against the fence for the entire cut.
If your jointer is truly "tuned", then have to make sure the operator
is also "tuned".
BTW, I'd stay away from the T/S.
This is a job for your jointer and planer to yield square stock IMHO.
This reminds me of my High School freshman wood shop class. For us to
be able to use, and appreciate, the power tools we first had to prove
we could use hand tools. One of the tasks was to get a scrap piece of
wood and after our instructor measured it, he would tell us what size,
length, width and height; it must be reduced to. The only tools we
could use were a hand plane, a square and a tape measure and
absolutely no sandpaper. All measurements not only had to be the
exact dimensions he specified but all the faces had to be exactly
square, parallel and perpendicular to the other respective faces for
the entire length. He inspected all wood blocks very closely. Some
kids took several weeks for each task.
I'm sure with a little time you could do it by hand. If you do, just
think of the pride you will have when completed.
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