trunnion trouble, or, why can't I adjust my tablesaw?

[Stoutman]

One more thing. What do you mean by "proper alignment"? I am a little skeptical that his saw was that out of wack before he started screwing with it.

How close to "proper alignment" can you get with the stick on a miter gauge technique? 0.1" 0.01??? As little as 0.005" in error can adversely effect the quality of your cuts.

Was he using the same spot on the blade for the front and back measurements? If he wasn't, he is introducing even more error onto his "stick on a miter gauge" alignment method technique.

[CW]

When you first posted, you said that this just happened. It was suggested then that you check to be sure that nothing is broken or loose. Have you checked? Alignment problems like this don't just happen.

[Anonymous]

Damn, Sam .. .. when you're talking about .250"+ discrepency, I wouldn't be too concerned with WHAT tooth he used .. UNLESS his blade is warped by that amount .. get real here. For what he's trying to accomplish here, a high-dollar alignment tool would be a waste of time and money. The ONLY thing a TS-Aligner would do is to more accurately inform him of the degree of his problem. Hell, I have one or two test indicators whose total travel is probably less than .250", but they are extremely accurate within their range. Maybe that's what he needs .. an indicator that reads in ten-thousandths of an inch .. .. that'll make his error appear 10 times greater .. .. AND it will be super-accurate !! !! !!

sheesh !!!

[Stoutman]

Blade warp or highs and lows add to ANY error measurement, regardless of what tool he used.

He is trying to align his blade parallel (trunnion adjustment) with his miter gage slot. Why wouldn't you want to align it properly? Stick on a miter gage isn't the proper way of doing this. I really question the error he initially reported because of the method he acquired it.

This tool is far from "high-dollar". Geesh. How much did he spend on his TS? Blade?

You hit the nail right on the head.

NO!! It won't make his error appear 10 times greater. It will make his error reading more accurate.

Yes. Why not?

Geesh!

[Stoutman]

UNLESS you take your measurements from the same spot on the blade.

[CW]

Using that technique, I can get it within .002, guaranteed. Likely closer. Indicator is faster though.

[tom]

Agreed, to a point. All you really need to align the blade to the slot is a consistent reference point (provided by the screw on the stick on the gauge) and a set of feeler gauges. Tom

[tom]

Sorry to the TSaligner clan... Tom

[Stoutman]

Feeler gauge?? Won't the feeler gauge flex the blade over as you slip it between? I push on my blade (CMT combo blade) a smidge and I see my indicator swing like mad (even though the flex is not visible to the eye).

[Stoutman]

Shhh! There is no clan.

>

[tom]

Hehee, well it does require a "feel" for the drag created by the feeler gauge... Tom

[CW]

[Will]

I use both my square to measure from the miter track and dial guage to check the sawblade for trueness. I got my dial gauge and magnetic mount from Harbor Freight both for $16 on sale. It works just great. It was made in China, but so what , the TS Aligner was probably made there too. I also mounted my gauge on a piece of hard wood that fits in the miter gauge track and by doing this I was able to slide the gauge forward and backward.

[sailor]

Boy, reading this thread, sure makes me happy to own a cabinet saw!

[Stoutman]

Nope. Made in the good ol' USA by Edward Bennett.

[Anonymous]

Not if you learn how to use one .. .. .. a rare skill in this day of digital-mania !! The skill of "feeling" the drag on a feeler gauge is the secret to it's use. BTW, that's how the "feeler gauge" got it's name .. .. .. you FEEL the drag.

[CW]

Except for the gage, which is made in China. The TSA is a fine piece of work though and if I was to buy a device such as this, it would be the one.

[tom]

Ahh, rare skills, indeed. Tom

[Larry W]

When I first got my tablesaw I checked and set the alignment only by setting a combination square body up against the miter slot and extending the blade til it just kissed the frontmost tooth of the blade. Turn the blade til that same tooth is at the rear, then move the combination square back, adjust until the blade makes same degree of contact with same tooth at the rear. A little time consuming perhaps but effective. IIRC I read of this method in Kelly Mehler's Tablesaw book. After I got a dial indicator and rechecked the saw it was within a few thousandths.

[RayV]

Just got this offer via email

't speak to the quality just passing it along.