trunnion trouble, or, why can't I adjust my tablesaw?

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Feeler gauge?? Won't the feeler gauge flex the blade over as you slip it between? I push on my blade (CMT combo blade) a smidge and I see my indicator swing like mad (even though the flex is not visible to the eye).

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I don't use a feeler gage.

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Boy, reading this thread, sure makes me happy to own a cabinet saw!
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Stoutman wrote:

Not if you learn how to use one .. .. .. a rare skill in this day of digital-mania !! The skill of "feeling" the drag on a feeler gauge is the secret to it's use. BTW, that's how the "feeler gauge" got it's name .. .. .. you FEEL the drag.
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Ahh, rare skills, indeed. Tom
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When I first got my tablesaw I checked and set the alignment only by setting a combination square body up against the miter slot and extending the blade til it just kissed the frontmost tooth of the blade. Turn the blade til that same tooth is at the rear, then move the combination square back, adjust until the blade makes same degree of contact with same tooth at the rear. A little time consuming perhaps but effective. IIRC I read of this method in Kelly Mehler's Tablesaw book. After I got a dial indicator and rechecked the saw it was within a few thousandths.
--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
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<<<__ Bob __>>> wrote:

Same sense of touch is used with a micrometer ... even if you have a ratchet or friction thimble. I always adjusted mine for a light sense of touch, not full-on with the thimble.
Bill
--
http://nmwoodworks.com/cube


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Stoutman wrote:

If he's actually 1/4" out, he should be able to eyeball it. Extending the blade on a try-square and dropping its frame into the miter slot will get him even closer.
Once he gets it -that- close, he can start casting about for a way to bring it on home. But if he can't get it straight by eye, then he's got more problems than a TS-Aligner can help him with.
I think you know that I'm all in favor of using indicators when appropriate. But until he can get it as close as the try-square --or even the screw on a stick-- will allow, he isn't ready for an indicator.
Bill
--
http://nmwoodworks.com/cube


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When you first posted, you said that this just happened. It was suggested then that you check to be sure that nothing is broken or loose. Have you checked? Alignment problems like this don't just happen.

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I use both my square to measure from the miter track and dial guage to check the sawblade for trueness. I got my dial gauge and magnetic mount from Harbor Freight both for $16 on sale. It works just great. It was made in China, but so what , the TS Aligner was probably made there too. I also mounted my gauge on a piece of hard wood that fits in the miter gauge track and by doing this I was able to slide the gauge forward and backward.
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Nope. Made in the good ol' USA by Edward Bennett.

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Except for the gage, which is made in China. The TSA is a fine piece of work though and if I was to buy a device such as this, it would be the one.

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When you are ready for precision, you can add a feeler guage to the mix. Get the screw close but not touching, and the feeler guage will get you to within .001".
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You can get closer than that with a piece of paper. Always available, were a feeler gage may not be.

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Rolling papers = 0.001".
3 x 5 index cards = 1/128" exactly.

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Father Haskell wrote:

Most notebook papers ~.003" ... but this sort of measurement doesn't care how thick the paper is as long as he uses the same piece of paper for both front and back measurement. We don't care how big the gap is ... only that it is the same front to back. That is enough to establish parallelism. For that matter, he could also use the shank end of a drill bit as his feeler stock.
Bill
--
http://nmwoodworks.com/cube


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Hi, just to follow up on this (I'm the OP)--I wound up sending it back to Grizzly. They were very easy to deal with and paid shipping. I still don't know what the problem was, but I'm glad I can have some experts take care of it for me. Thanks to everyone for the advice and opinions.
ds
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Had a similar problem with my Jet CTS so you are not alone. Make sure you loosen up the tilt wheel from the case that could keep the front from moving.
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RayV, you may have hit the nail on the head! I was just starting to wonder if I needed to loosen something to allow the movement I need. I think that may be the issue. I'll try it out and report back.
ds
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I had a similar problem with at Powermatic Artisan saw; I never was able to get it aligned properly. I sold it and bought a General (Canadian) cabinet saw....what a nice piece of machinery. Dave
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