True 1/4" Plywood - From Drawer Bottoms Come Zero Clearance Inserts

As I was demo'ing the old drawers from my kitchen, I found this sticker on the bottom of one of them:

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The plywood is a true 1/4" and made of hardwoods. I did a Google search on Weldwood Plywood and found this brochure from 1944:

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wood1944

That's a blast from beyond my past!

I've already started to recycle the panels. Since I've got a bunch of groov es to cut in 3/4" stock for my kitchen doors, I made a zero clearance inser t for my table saw. The extra blank in the photo will be used to make an in sert for my dado blade.

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The original metal insert uses a screw at the front and a "spring tab" at t he rear to hold it secure to the table. I chose to drill and tap the rear l edge that the insert sits on and use screws to secure both the front and re ar of the plywood insert(s). My table saw has a 3/8" ledge all around the i nsert opening so I don't expect any sag in the insert. If I notice any, I'l l laminate another piece onto the bottom of it to stiffen it up.

Reply to
DerbyDad03
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LOL, that is where 1/4" plywood got its name, 1/4".

I might suggest that you put some short wood screws into the bottom of the inserts, in the same locations as the setscrews in the steel plate, in the event your new inserts need a touch of tweaking to be even with the table top.

Reply to
Leon

on the bottom of one of them:

on Weldwood Plywood and found this brochure from 1944:

rooves to cut in 3/4" stock for my kitchen doors, I made a zero clearance i nsert for my table saw. The extra blank in the photo will be used to make a n insert for my dado blade.

at the rear to hold it secure to the table. I chose to drill and tap the re ar ledge that the insert sits on and use screws to secure both the front an d rear of the plywood insert(s). My table saw has a 3/8" ledge all around t he insert opening so I don't expect any sag in the insert. If I notice any, I'll laminate another piece onto the bottom of it to stiffen it up.

Thanks for the suggestion, but the plywood was actually just slightly proud of the table top and had to be sanded to be brought level with the table t op. Besides being made of hardwoods, it also sits flat on the perimeter she lf so it's very well supported, thus no sag.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

So what you really need is "1/4" plywood manufactured recently, slightly thinner than 1/4" 8^)

I do a fair amount of wood salvaging from old cabinets and furniture and a find like yours makes it all worthwhile. At least you have the incentive to use it, I just hoard it.

-BR

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Reply to
Brewster

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