Tricky cut - how would you make it?

I am making a dresser which will be the mate to one I already own. Each drawer has mitered oak trim on the front with the front face of each piece of trim being beveled. Before I do the miters I have to make a cut on the face of each piece of the drawer trim to get the bevel. I am posting a picture on abpw if you want to see what I am talking about.
To make this bevel cut (18 degrees) on my table saw I need to run a 2" wide piece of 3/4 oak down the length of my table saw. I will be making the cut into the 2" face. I am really worried about kickback or other problems on this cut. If I keep a feather board on the table saw pushing the board up against the fence and another featherboard on the fence pushing the board down on the table, do you think that will work? What do you think about this cut? What can I do to maximize my safety as well as protect the wood from being screwed up?
I had thought about doing this with a panel raising bit on my router table but I don't own such a bit and I'm not sure I would find one that is beveled at 18 degrees though I have not looked.
TIA
Dick Snyder
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To be safe, take a full width board, prepare the edge, and do the bevel cut, then cut off the two inch section, then repeat for the balance of the trim pieces you need. This way you can use the 6" or so of board width to apply downward pressure when you make the bevel cut. In other words, don't cut the stock to 2" width before you do the bevel. If you screw up the bevel cut, then just cut off the mistake and bevel another. Use featherboards and you'll do fine.
Mutt
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Unfortunately I do not own a jointer so I have already had the boards trued up at a local milling place including the 2" width. If there is a next time I will know better.

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I don't forsee any problems cutting that with you table saw. Use your featherboards if you like and git r done As an option, you can always make an angled jig and run the boards through your planer. --dave

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Based on your suggestions and my lack of a really good plane I went with the two featherboards with the top one being solidly attached to an auxillary fence 8" high (I bolted it into holes on my main fence which is only a couple of inches high.
Thanks for taking the time to give me your suggestions.
Dick Snyder

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featherboards and anti-kickback pawls.
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Dick Snyder wrote:

Use a splitter, one of these, <
http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/narrowstripripper2.jpg (Or
pushblocks that have a surface you don't care about), and possibly a helper if the stock is very long.
Set the blade slightly higher than the wood, the pushblocks can run right over the blade.
I greatly prefer this method over featherboards.
Barry
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Barry, I actually made one of those based on your reply to a posted question I had about cutting thin strips and it works great plus it gives me something to do with old mouse pads. It won't work too well in this case as I have to make sloped cuts in stock 2" high and 3/4" wide. The stock has to be pushed through on the 3/4" edge so there is too much danger of the 2" face moving away from the fence and there is only a 3/4" wide surface for me to push down on. I did go with the featherboard approach with an 8" high auxillary fence bolted to my main fence so I could really clamp down the featherboard that pushes down on the stock.
Dick

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On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 15:59:30 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
Any chance of also using double-sided carpet tape to tack the item down to a base plate?

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Dick Snyder wrote:

I missed the part about the 3/4" edge down. <G>
Barry
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