I have a 20x30 foot deck that has some 5/4 6" treated pine(I think it's
pine) decking that is starting to cup and warp... I'm getting a few
half inch gaps now between the boards...it's only been a few years.
I didn't put it down, and it looks like an amature job for sure....
they never even put any sealer on the wood! The only way I can think
of to fix this is to pull all the boards off, run them through a $200
ryobi (home depot special) surface planer, then put them back. Would
this be a good option, or am I going to have to scrap the whole deal
and start over from the joists up?
I'm also planning on expanding this deck too, as the railing is kinda
loose and falling off anyhow. Again, i did not put this together.
I'm just trying to see if I can salvage the $1000 or so of wood.
Planing them will just give you thickness variations and the cost of the
planer and your labor negates any potential savings anyway. Just plan on
redoing the job properly and consider one of the many composite decking
materials available since they are stable and maintenance (sealing)
Perhaps you can recycle the old deck materials to make a trellis on a
section of fence to back some bushes.
> I have a 20x30 foot deck that has some 5/4 6" treated pine(I think it's
> pine) decking that is starting to cup and warp... I'm getting a few
> half inch gaps now between the boards...it's only been a few years.
> I didn't put it down, and it looks like an amature job for sure....
When it comes to repair, you can't get there from here.
Try to find another use for the lumber you remove.
What you've got here is an opportunity. You can put a composite
decking material such as Trex down right over your warped and cupped
boards. You can use a thinner composite because it will be well
"If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a
nail." - Abraham Maslow
*Amen* to all that replied. The treated pine you buy is right out if
the vat. Green as hell when it goes in, it takes pressure and heat to
get the preservatives pushed into the grain. I used to get that stuff
so wet and green that it would shoot moisture out when you would cut it
with a skillsaw.
And as for the problems you are having, that is the very reason I no
longer build decks as part of my company offerings. The clients didn't
like the end product a year later, and neither did I.
No amount of sealing, prep, or any other gyrations will make that stuff
a suitable product.
I have some stickered in my back yard against the fence, and most if it
has been back there for a year or two. It has done all the shrinking
and twisting it will do. I use this stuff for repairs on decks just
like you have.
was before the new non poisonous stuff came out. I could only find it
at the high end store in town and the price was up there too. A quick
search using "kiln dried pressure treated lumber" gave 81 results but no
manufacturers names jumped out at me, mostly people selling items made
with it. Call the most expensive lumber dealer in your area and ask
while you're sitting down.
That varies a lot depending on the local area.
KDPT is a rare commodity in many areas, as is
In my area, we have plenty of IPE at $1.80lf
while a 12' syp pt is $5.25.
The KD of PT version does not exist locally.
J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 01 Dec 2006 11:37:43 -0500, Joe Gorman wrote:
<http://www.ipedepot.com will sell you 1x6 ipe for $1.85/lineal foot(plus shipping of course--adds a lot on small orders, not so much on big
ones). The local yard will sell me 4/4 cabinet grade KD ipe S3S for the
price you were quoted.
I think you see what I am talking about...
He sounds high on the Ipe but if they
really have KDPT, that's a no brainer.
The KDPT generally runs "about" 30-50%
higher than standard. If these guys are
the only game in town, they know what
Joe Gorman wrote:
IMHO treated lumber should only be used for the structure of the deck. The
decking/balustrade should be Redwood, Cedar, Ipe, Mahogany, (etc) or a
composite. Although I have built numerous treated decks in the past, the
customer is given full warning as to what will happen (warping, splitting
etc) to the treated decking, 5/4 in particular, as it dries out. In any
case, if you must use the treated decking butt the wet boards together. In
due time they will shrink and leave a gap sufficient for water runoff.
Fasten it with screws, 2 per joist about 3/4" in from the edge to help
prevent cupping. Also, when I have built a treated deck it was left
unfinished. The lumber is way to wet to put a finish on at first, and,
depending where you live, could take months to dry out enough to put a
finish on. Hence sealing has be left entirely to the homeowner. I'd just
remove the old treated decking and replace with a proper decking material
provided the structure is sound. --dave
I choose Polesoft Lockspam to fight spam, and you?
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.