Transtint penetration

Black, liquid dye, on maple. Any way to get it soaked in deeply enough -- 1/16" or so -- that light sanding won't burn through it?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Maple doesn't like to take color. I do a full strength wash of transtint black on curly maple as a first step to excentuate the figure. It takes very little hand sanding to get it back to mostly white maple. Infact you can see some samples here of one project that used that technique. I use water as a base but it is the same story for alcohol.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Colonial-Curly-Maple-Side-Table-occasional-table-/150549406244?pt=Antiques_Furniture&hash=item230d71a224
Very proud of this finish by the way.
What are you trying to accomplish?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Nice, good to see someone shooting for depth.

Black stain that doesn't muddy the grain, that shows off PVC resin inlay. Transtint in water doesn't stick to plastic as much as Transtint in alcohol (good), but the color on maple is more red-black than black-black (not so good). Still have a few minor bugs to work out.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Avoid sanding so aggressively. Just what are you sanding, the raised wood fibers, nibs and such? To avoid as many nibs, like raised wood fibers, wipe your piece with just alcohol first, to get those nibs to rise, then sand them. Repeat this process if need be. This way, there won't be so many to sand after applying the dye stain.
Beyond the nibs and such, the stained piece should, ideally, not need to be sanded.
Sonny
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You can do second coats and it will darken. The color will look very different once you apply some lacquer or shellac or whatever. Dramaticially different. Dye colors always look like a mistake, dull, gray, flat until you hitthem with some film finish or oil. Then they pop!
You might look into ebonizing. One method to do this is to dissolve steel wool in vinegar. Do a google on ebonizing. Here is one result http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Ebonizing_Wood.html
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Tried it. Works okay, but Transtint black looks a _lot_ deeper, results are much more predictable.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Nice table. Curious, did you turn the legs on a lathe, or do them by hand or router table?
On 1/16/2011 11:25 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Colonial-Curly-Maple-Side-Table-occasional-table-/150549406244?pt=Antiques_Furniture&hash=item230d71a224
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Jan 17, 8:04am, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:

Well... he said sheepishly... this was a kit from Bartleys Collections.
I bough the kit as part of my competitive research; I am going int the kit business hopefully. Then I wanted to do a real world test of a curly maple finish I have been working on. So I built the kit to testthe finish on a real piece. So I am super happy and proud of the finish but all the milling was done by the guys as www.bartleycollection.com
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Look here for an even better method of ebonizing
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/Ebonizing_Wood /
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.