My buddy is finishing up his kitchen install and is putting molding on
top of the cabinets. The outside wall is about 7' so he needs to cut
the molding to match the slope of the ceiling.
The molding is pre-finished Maple, 3/4 x 3" and sits flat on top of
the cabinets overhanging the face frame by about 1 1/2". To do this
on the chop saw he needs to stand the wood on edge and rip an angle of
about 10deg with the money side up. Can this be securely held to make
My first thought is to clamp the modling to the end of a square cut
2x4, drill two holes through the molding into the end of the 2x4 and
install dowels. Then the 2x4 can be clamped and the cut can be made
cutting through the molding and the dowels. The holes for the dowels
won't show because that part of the molding will be on top of the
Second thought is to make a sled and do the angled rips on the TS but
my saw is 100 miles from his kitchen and any tweaking will take a
considerable amount of time.
Any better ideas?
Might be a reason for me to by a saw but what kind? Dovetail? Gent?
I did consider a belt sander to do the major damage and clean it up
with a block plane but then I'd have to drive the 100 miles to fit the
After reading other replies I think I misunderstood. I thought you needed
an angled crosscut but you need a bevel rip along the top, correct?
If so, what's wrong with using a circle saw set to correct bevel and a
straight edge guide? The bevel doesn't have to *match* the ceiling, only
accomodate it; i.e. the bevel can be greater than the slope of the ceiling
because only the front, sharp edge of the cut will show.
Another way is with a router and guide. Attach a shim to the router base so
it is angled as you need and have at it. If the router base doesn't have a
flat edge, make a temporary one from 1/4" ply...you need a straight edge on
the base so the angle of the router relative to what is being cut doesn't
Or could you possibly be talking about a bevel on the face of the molding?
If so, WTF for??
I don't think I was clear as to what needs to be done. The cut needs
to be similar to the end of the board in this picture but only at
I have a tenoning jig but if my math is correct at 10deg on 3/4" wood
the blade would need to be about 4 3/8" high.
The molding lays flat and has a finished edge that overhangs the face
frame and part of the overlay doors (similar to base molding laid
Yes the top edge can be rough cut or belt sanded then tweaked with a
plane but a single swipe with a CMS would be sooo much easier.
OK, now I have it.
Your best bet may still be a handsaw. I could see making a couple of narrow
guide blocks with the correct taper and clamping them on to the piece to be
cut (laid flat, back down) so that a saw could rest on the guides while
sawing. Sort of a horizontal miter box or shooting guide. I'd probably use
my little flexible Japanese saw intended for cutting off dowels and the
like. Bit of a PITA but it would work and should need no further tweaking.
Seems to me that it would be MUCH easier (and safer) to clamp the
moulding vertical, and use a small plane to cut the slope on the top
of the molding. And the angle doesn't have to match the ceiling
slope, it can be a bit greater than the ceiling slope, so the the
visible face of the molding meets the ceiling precisely.
Even if the plane is like most of the new ones on the market, and not
a very good one, you don't need a smooth cut, because the planed face
will be hidden.
Hand tools rule!
On Mon, 23 Mar 2009 06:21:05 -0700, Limp Arbor wrote:
I must be reading your post incorrectly. From what I can tell, you need
to do a rip cut across the top of the molding to match a slop of the
ceiling. Your estimate is the ceiling has about a 10 degree slope from
the center of the kitchen to the wall behind the new cabinet. The wood
is maple (which makes using hand plane a *real* challenge on 3/4" to most
I hope I am misreading, as you don't have much of an option here without
hauling a contractor's TS to the job site. You haven't provided the
longest length of molding you need to rip.
And using a sliding bevel gage with a plumb-bob (checking it in about 3
or 4 places) doesn't seem to be a good idea for you since your TS is
about a 2 hour drive away.
As another poster replied, it is only the very front top edge that is
seen by visitors, so a rip cut of maybe 15 degrees (a 5 degree extra)
could still be not what you had in mind. Just how much wood did you want
in direct and tight contact with this sloping ceiling? With maple, I
don't think you *need* the full 3/4 inches. We are talking about molding
Have you considered some sort of double bevel rip cut like on the cutting
edge of a chisel? 15 degrees on most of the top edge and then only maybe
an 1/8 inch matching bevel at the actual point of contact with the
ceiling? 1/8 inch bevel is do-able for fine tuning at job site with a
Suitable solution found.
I clamped a sample piece of Maple to the end of a 2x4
Drilled two holes with a 9/64 dit
Drove in two 5/16 fluted dowels
Set my CMS to 10deg miter
Held the 2x4 against the fence
Made the cut
The piece didn't even budge. A little wiggling and tugging and the
piece came off the dowels. Not good for a production run but for the
three cuts he needs to make it will be fine.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
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