Tool ReReview - Refurb Delta Unisaw - Part Three

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Bruce Barnett wrote:

Bruce, I have the TS Aligner Jr and the 45 degree angle block. I don't use them every day, but when I do, I'm mighty glad to have them. Get the DVD too. It has some tricks not shown in the book I think.
DonkeyHody "I'd rather expect the best from people and be wrong than expect the worst and be right."
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DonkeyHody said:

LMAO. No offense taken and none intended. And how I do go on with them fancy words. The written word holds some fascination to me - little humor these days can bring a wry smile to your face as quickly as a well written turn of phrase. Not that I've succeeded at that in any way, mind you...
And for whatever it's worth - I am a southern country boy myself. Just happened to have a Damned Yankee for a mother. <g>
And Donkey, don't forget to take ducks to the show. Ducks for the mailbox, ducks for the head, and ducks for the stoop. Us country folks luuuvs our ducks.
Later,
Greg G.
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I just could not help but comment on all this. I think that if one were inclined to take a micrometer to every square inch of any manufacturer's product (and personally I'm not), one might well come up with many, many variances. I'm sure that if Delta is reading the post, they are taking notes and deciding if any of this makes any difference to them. Other than the chipped blade and its result, I can't get too excited about a fence tape not cut at 90 degrees (hey, its a FIFTY inch fence, you don't need the extra inches!). And personally, I kinda like the grunt my unisaur makes when I crank it up......
However, Greg paid his money and is entitled to his view, review and re-review of the saw's shortcomings. I admire his sticktoittiveness after the FIRST refurb nightmare, going back for another. Others might have gone a different route, e.g., not buying a reconditioned saw in the first place (or choosing another brand) if the raison d'etre of the purchase was excellence in tolerances so one could make ukuleles or whatever. Powermatic or General might have been a better choice for Greg, but as some other wag mentioned, Powermatic is likely quite happy he choose a unisaur.
My only thought is hey, its wood.....and we're not building communication satellites with tablesaws, and frankly its either true or quite likely that wood moves more over time than the tolerances we are talking about unless some folks have a climate controlled clean room for a shop. Having heard both speak about powertools and choices of manufacturers, Sam Maloof and Tage Frid would be shaking their heads over this (and the preceeding threads) and would likely suggest that tablesaws only get you halfway there - the rest is handwork and the art of the craftsman that really produces results (whether in ukuleles or "twobufour dog and bird houses for the craft fair"). By the way, Greg, it just might be that Donkey has the skill on his worst day to outbuild you on your best day, so you might be careful about launching cheap shots even with a "<g>" appended.
I'm done. Mutt
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Pig said:

It's all quite hilarious is one regard - and exasperating in another. But I hardly took a micrometer to _every_ square inch - only relevant things like arbor diameter (been bitten before), top flatness (been bitten before) and miter track width, depth and parallelism (been bitten before). These things effect the everyday usefulness of a saw.

No ukuleles - yet. Tiny Tim I'm not. <g> But perhaps a guitar or two. And as for Powermatic, I guess that would depend on how it all came out in the end. They do expend a fair amount of effort on these very issues in the PM66 - and the price reflects it. But how will the new Chinese PM2000 fair? And how will you know? You'll read it here.
But since this thread has caused such a riot among the four people still reading it, perhaps I'll buy one of each and test them all.
arrrgggghhh.... sdflnin svilvnr ldrinv nysd
SWMBO just yanked my leash and emphatically informed me that it ain't gonna happen. <g>

This is a valid point, but still no reason to dismiss relevant issues, as they can often reduce the amount of 'handwork' needed to complete a satisfactory piece. But in the end, it's up to the individual and his/her talents to overcome their tool's shortcomings/limitations - and they all possess deficiencies. Except, perhaps, the Bosch jigsaw.

Yeah, I know. While attempting to inject humor into an otherwise stoic thread, I have run the risk of offending. Humor at others expense is probably best contained within a group of familiars.
So, with this in mind. I unequivocally declare that Donkey's 2x4 veneer core birdhouses are the finest I've never seen. <g>
See, I can change...
(It's a joke, lighten up. Sarcasm will most likely be my undoing.)

Later,
Greg G.
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We have a climate controlled dirty room. Does that count?
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I thought the review was great and I would have never accepted the saw!
Maybe they are collecting a bunch of seconds/damaged units and cobbling them together to sell. It's less of a loss than trashing them.
Yes, one expects some faults in a refurb, but the table should be as good as a new one, maybe better. A slightly bent wheel shaft is OK, as long as the adjustment is smooth. Paint is not important. Arbor bearings should be new.
Refurb means a lot more than a paintjob!
I see Delta stuff in stores I wouldn't buy. I also see the same things I see under different names, but the Delta price is much higher. I don't think the old quality is there in all the tools. Some maybe, not all.
Wilson

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Greg G. Wrote:

Greg, you have knowledge and experience that allows you to articulate some great info on the new Delta Unisaws, very useful. Im following your posts with interest. Stay on topic, bud, let the chaff fall to the side.
You can (and should) have the self adhesive measurement tape replaced, as well as the saw blade. Call Delta at 1-(800) 223-7278, tell them you just got a Unisaw and what you need, and they will UPS you new parts, no questions asked. Note: if you have the 3/4-in wide self-adhesive measurement tape, it does not appear in their parts list. Ask for part number 79-067 (3/4-in, 6-ft length, English/metric). Remove the old tape and install/cut the new one. And yes, anyone can do a cleaner cut on the end of that tape than Delta does.
--
joe2

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joe2 said:

Yeah, Yeah - cheap shot, I agree. But my fingers have a mind of their own - especially the middle one... <g>

But that's no fun....

I'm actually not concerned about the measure. I will probably replace it with a Starrett metal 3/4" anyway. It was just FYI.
As for Delta's number - hey, it's on the speed dial. <g> I have a shop full of their stuff. I've never had much of a problem - except one right after B&D bought them. And another when I tried to get the parts through an authorized dealer who subsequently billed me for warranty parts. And then there was the time...
Greg G.
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C & S wrote:

No. I would like to see more reviews like this. Not likely from the magazine press, but on Usenet Next Month, Greg on Grizzly!
er
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Greg G. said:

Incidentally, just so you don't think I didn't notice what you said while I was rambling on about other nonsense, I assume you meant that the trunnions and arbor support assembly should be held securely together, as in clamped from front to rear, and evenly on both sides before tightening the trunnion to cabinet bolts? Is this correct?
I am assuming this is necessary to prevent excessive play in the trunnion slides, and to possibly prevent the entire arbor/motor assembly from falling out. I haven't checked the total clearances available here, so the latter may be impossible.
Thanks, Frank.
Greg G.
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Just a note to say that I too am reading the discourse 'tween you and Frank. Please keep posting.
I'm learning stuff.
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