OK - Even smaller chunks. Absolutely no humor or 'editorializing'. You guys could suck the fun from a clandestine affaire de coeur.
Part Two exited with the final assembly of the extension tables.
This is the end result of working with the tables and extension for 2 days to get them evened out. There are two pictures because one didn't cover it all, I'm too lazy to take any more. The diagonal arrows point out the diagonal clearances on the main table. Don't take these too seriously, as the hump around the throat aggravates the diagonal measurements beyond what they probably are in reality.
Almost no shimming was needed to get the two extension tables coplanear with the saw top. A wispy strip of .002" teflon was all that was needed. I have never seen a set 'that' close out of the box.
The other reason for upgrading was noise. This saw has a tremendous advantage over my old saw. While running, a pleasant hum and the particular whine of the selected blade is all you hear. Except, that is, when starting the saw with a blade mounted - especially a dado.
A disconcerting concert of vibrations accompanies power-on. A preliminary examination of it's source reveals that there is significant play in the trunnions radiused channels which the arbor assembly/cross support rotates in. You can actually grab the motor and deflect the assembly 3/8" or so. This motion, combined with a large EM field that causes the cabinet to shudder, makes for a less than eloquent start-up voice. This was a surprise. There doesn't seem to be a gib or other adjustment method to eliminate/reduce this excessive movement, but I haven't got the 'Delta Maintenance" book or a printed parts view to confirm this. I saw nothing in the PDF. Where do I get one, Frank?
The accessories were all in new packaging. They look new as well.
This is the fence. The acquisition of Beisemeyer by Delta doesn't seem to have improved the breed. This photo is a collage of the points detailed below.
Some kind of problem befell the tape after assembly, and the end was broken off. Others I have seen did not exhibit this phenomenon, and it appears that this was done while handling or packing the product into the box. Adhesive remains where the missing part of the tape used to be. It was not in the box, and looks as though someone tried to trim the end (and poorly I might add.) (Top Right)
The plastic T-molding that wraps the plywood fence face, more so on the left side (the one you actually USE), is not centered. It leaves exposed plywood on one side, and hangs over the fence face on the other. (Both Bottom)
The clear plastic (acrylic?) hairline has a distortion around the line itself. I 'think' it may have been intended to be a magnifier, but it looks more like the plastic distorted when scribing the line, or in the mold itself. It's rather odd.
The rails were painted and straight, but the slides on the rear end of the fence only leave .015" clearance between the fence face bottom edge and the table - slightly more on the right face. I had to modify the table's mounting holes slightly in order to get the fence to slide across the surface without slamming into the joints in the top.
This is a picture of the infamous binding arbor wrench. You can see the angle at which the business end of the wrench is at in relation to the arbor. It is bound on the table top. The blade height is 2 1/4". The cure is to lessen the severity of the bend in the shank. No comments on this are desired at this point. There it is.
That's it for today.
Greg G.