Titebond II, am I the only one with issues?

ProBond Carpenters glue? Yeah that is good also and I prefer it in the Summer plus the container is perfect for refilling. During the Winter it is way too thick for my liking.

Reply to
Leon
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Lawrence Wasserman responds:

Me, too. Supposedly, creep is helpful for wood joints that need to flex a bit, as in chairs.

Charlie Self "Political language... is designed to make lies sound truthful and murder respectable, and to give an appearance of solidity to pure wind." George Orwell

Reply to
Charlie Self

Or joints that are end grain glued to side grain.

Reply to
Leon

...

That's not the common definition I'm aware of...creep is the gradual shift of two pieces relative to each other under long term loading and is a potential problem w/ any non-hard glue.

You're right that proud glue lines are not creep but the result of differential expansion from temperature or more commonly moisture...

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

One of the things I do (when I remember to do it) on edge gluing is to scratch a little groove about a 32nd in from each edge of each board. Then I keep the glue between the grooves. No squeezeout unless I use way too much glue :-).

If what you're seeing is the result of wood movement, my method won't help. Except if it's the wood shrinking and the glue not shrinking.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

I'm in my Garage, turn the heater on, no problems

Reply to
Richard Clements

where d'you learn all them long word frum.....mjh

Reply to
mike hide

Thanks folks for all the help. A few answers to some of the questions popping up.

  1. Wood being used is typically 5-7% moisture content. The wood is seasoned in my garage for a few weeks. Cut to rough dimension, sits another week or two, then I cut to final dimension.
  2. Clamping pressure is pretty minimal meaning I don't crank the heck out of the clamps.
  3. My joints are nice and even before glue up and after. In fact, some of them, with the grain orientation etc... you cannot even see.

I've obviously misused the term "Glue Creep" as these are pieces that have no stresses on them in most cases. I suppose it's possible the moisture content might swell the thickness a bit but it just seems odd that none of the other furniture in the house seems to have this issue (not my construction). Using shellac as well, I wouldn't expect to see moisture changes at the joint although I may be wrong on that assessment. I suppose a more accurate description is "Proud Joints". I believe I'm jointing, gluing, clamping just like most folks so I guess my question is now becoming "Is this normal?".

Cheers, cc

Reply to
James "Cubby" Culbertson
5-7% is pretty low for equilibrium moisture...where are you located? If it's not in a very arid climate, I'd expect that the final moisture is, in fact, higher and is a likely cause.

Sounds like your working is ok other than I suppose it might be possible (although unlikely if you work anything like I do on fine work--not enough time for that :( ) you are sanding near the joint too soon after gluing and the excess moisture has swollen the joint somewhat so that when it subsequently dries the glue line does stand a little proud of the surface. Some moveement is not unheard of, for it to be extremely prevelant indicates to me there's some difference in moisture equilibrium between the working area and the finished pieces' environment.

I notice the piece you mentioned was cherry and built in the summer...if your summers are humid and you now are looking at very dry, heated indoor air after a couple of years, I could see that...

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

...

Yep, I was guessing somewhere such as that...moutains or flatlander? I'm in far SW KS and it's hard to get that dry here even...

Do you by any chance have a power humidifier hooked up to the central heat?

I can only recomend perhaps waiting a little longer after you glue before final sanding of the glue joint to see if that will help equilibrium some. Even here I rarely have a problem.

Idea...Maybe try a couple of test pieces w/ Type I and II glues (and maybe a couple of vendors' varieties as well) and see if you can tell any difference between the glues and timing of various patterns of work.

OBTW, you finishing both sides of the pieces, correct?

Reply to
Duane Bozarth

possible

extremely

summer...if

I'm in New Mexico. Humidity is negligible most of the time. Items are being built in the garage and put inside the house approx. 20 feet away. I do remember some pine I worked with at about 9% but generally stuff get's pretty darned dry here. cheers, cc

Reply to
Cubby

No humidifier hooked up. I do have to say however, that humidity does tend to swing quite a bit. Usually it's dry (say 15% most of the summer) but rains come and jack that up for a week or so to say 30%. Winters are usually pretty dry. I am finishing all the sides of the pieces (obviously not the mortices/tenons). Just seems odd that the boards move on my projects but not the other furniture. cc

Reply to
Cubby

"Winter" in Houston? Isn't that like "winter" here in Tucson but with humidity?

Reply to
Mark & Juanita

Most of your purchased furniture is probably finished w/ lacquer and also probably uses heat-cured resin glues...

Reply to
Duane Bozarth
25 scheduled for tonight ... it will be colder here through Christmas (47 Hi) then the forecast for Tucson.
Reply to
Swingman

Cause I can feel it. I don't like the fact that I have tops on a nightstand where you can feel the joint.

Reply to
James "Cubby" Culbertson

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