Tips & Tricks for removing & replacing hardwood floor pieces ..

Hi All ; I'll likely need to remove & replace about four pieces of hickory hardwood flooring, due to powder post beetles. - any advice is appreciated - The pieces are 2 1/4 x 3/4 inches x 3 - 4 ft. long tongue & groove. Thanks ; John T.
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On 1/14/2015 7:23 AM, snipped-for-privacy@ccanoemail.com wrote:

Remove the center of the boards first, you can do that with a router or circular saw. Then you should have enough room to pry the perimeter of the board away from the boards that will remain.
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wrote:

Then remove the bottom of the tongues on the new piece, glue the edges, and drop in.
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On 1/14/2015 2:35 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Yeah, LOL, he did ask that too. ;~)
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Do you mean remove the bottom half of the grooved edge ? .. keeping the tongue .. This would seem weaker than removing the tongue completely ? Also - wouldn't there be nails to remove ? cut them off somehow ? John T.
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On 1/14/2015 4:19 PM, snipped-for-privacy@ccanoemail.com wrote:

After you remove the old pieces, you will have a groove on one side and a tongue on the other side within the open area. Begin with the tongue of a new board and insert in the groove side and follow with other boards until you reach the last board to insert. Glue the top of the tongue of the old board, remove the bottom portion of the groove on the last board, insert the tongue into the other new board and lay the top portion of the groove side on top of the tongue of the old board. Depending on overall area, glue may be sufficient but if a larger area, I suggest nailing the top groove of the new board into the tongue of the old board where you applied the glue.
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On 1/14/2015 3:19 PM, snipped-for-privacy@ccanoemail.com wrote:

Yes, keep the top tongue on the edge of the replacement board that has the slot. Cut the bottom tongue off so that it will fit back down over the center tongue of the board that you are not replacing.

Probably! You can get to them more easily after removing the damaged boards. A Multimaster or an inexpensive clone was made for cutting flush and could easily remove nails that may be in the way after pulling the damaged boards out.

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Thanks for the reply. The pieces that need to be removed & replaced are not adjacent. They are individual strips, in the "middle" of the floor. Just one piece extends to the wall & under the baseboard. < this is where I might apply some Timbor or similar product in case the other board-ends are susceptable to penetration ?> And the wall ends might be a travel area ? .. Any thoughts on screwing up from the basement - - in addition to gluing the new strips in ? Thanks. John T.
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On 1/14/2015 6:25 PM, snipped-for-privacy@ccanoemail.com wrote:

The same approach applies whether an area of boards or separate pieces, it will just be more time consuming since you'll have to cut more boards.
If the boards lie on a subfloor which is accessible from the basement, nailing wont hurt but be sure you don't use nails which are too long and may protrude out the top.
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