I am using Zinsser Bulls Eye Shellac, which drys fast, really fast. So fast in fact, it is difficult to rub on and get done before starting to dry, making for a not so smooth a finish. Any way to retard drying time a little? Doing it first thing in the morning before things heat up helps a little, but not enough. Forget trying to do anything later in the day. Thanks.
How big is your area that you are using this on. Are you applying indoors or Out? Can you bring it in to cooler temps.
Shellac like lacquer will haze in humidity I assume you know that. On lacquers I use a retarder to slow down if its hot or hazy, but I have never done that to shellac.
Try going to an auto paint store and getting a retarder for lacquer, and test a spot... See if it helps.
"Paul" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news1.newsguy.com:
Look up on Google for better hints than this. Shellac dissolves in ethanol. EtOH (CH3-CH2OH) evaporates rather fast. To slow this, try to add some propanol (CH3-CH2-CH2OH), or isopropanol (CH3-CHOH-CH3). Longer and/or more complex carbon backbone makes for higher boiling point, less evaporation. Also diluting with EtOH or (iso)propanol, especialy for a first sealer coat, makes things easier to apply.
A few years ago I posted this tip under the title "shellac blasphemy" and got blown out of cyberspace by this group, but I swear it works.
I was using shellac on a large surface area (built-in desk/workspace), and it became a huge PITA applying the shellac by brush. I found that using a 4-inch wide high density foam roller worked exceptionally well. I could apply a coat of Zinsser's shellac over ~40 sq ft in 5 mins or less, keeping the "wet edge" concept intact. There was a slight orange peel effect that sanded out every 2-3 coats easily. And I could put on 6-8 coats a day.
But you have to test the batch of shellac to see if the alcohol denaturing agent is compatible with the foam roller. Some denaturants e.g. MEK, benzene, &tc. will dissolve the foam and make a huge mess. All I kniw is that it worked REALLY well for me.
1) Switch from denatured alcohol to isopropyl alcohol. It dries more slowly.
2) Finish in the early morning, when the humidity is higher and the temperature is lower.
3) Switch from shellac to Waterlox. (Sorry, had to do it. ;)
-- Most powerful is he who has himself in his own power. -- Seneca
Work fast and let the shellac have time to dry hard between coats. Giveaway is bits of lint from the rag in your shellac. A couple of drops of mineral, olive, or walnut oil on the pad will stop it from sticking. Ridges or other defects can be wet sanded out easily with 320 and paint thinner.
I've been down that path... I finally started putting it on the surface with a plastic pipette (think small turkey baster --
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) and then brushing it quickly. This allows me to get it on fast so there is always a wet edge and no stop/start overlaps along the length. I doubt if you'll find this technique in any books... it's along the lines of pouring wipe on poly on the surface and then wiping. ;~)
Dissolve dry shellac flakes in denatured ethanol, which is sold in most paint stores. It also dissolves in methanol, butyl and propyl alcohol. Methanol will evaporate the quickest, followed by ethanol, butyl and propyl alcohol. The last two alcohols, butyl and propyl can be added to shellac dissolved in ethanol in small amounts to act as retarders, which make the shellac stay wet longer for better application (like brushing). Lacquer retarder can also be used. I do not recommend using methanol as a solvent because it is very toxic. In some older finishing books, methanol is referred to as wood alcohol or methylated spirits, but its use is discouraged.
Jack Stein wrote in news:j4ilt2$1b8$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Methanol is toxic if you really drink it instead of or mixed with ethanol. Methanol isn't all that toxic if you handle it appropriately. I used to work with mixtures of MeOH, chloroform, ammonia (or acetic acid), and water as solvent for chromatography. Maybe that's why I'm the way I am now, but otherwise ...
My probem with methanol is that I needed it for something woodworking after I retired, and here in NJ I can't seem to fid a store that sells it.
Strange places like big box stores - aka - Home Depot, Lowe's and the corner hardware / lumber yard. Now for the strangest - Pharmacy and maybe an auto part store.
Mart> Jack Stein wrote in news:j4ilt2$1b8$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me: >
Jack Stein wrote in news:j4l60v$kn2$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Yes. Even water is toxic. Someone I know was drinking too much water, resulting in an electrolyte imbalance. Not good. But he's doing very well now, thank you.
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