Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly

Just brought in my latest woodworking project. (Still smells like some of the alcohol in the shellac is evaporating.) Before taking it apart to finish it, I marked some parts and not others. As a result, some of the parts are fitting nicely and others aren't.

So when building something be sure to mark everything before you take it apart.

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper
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As I am finishing an entertainment center, I know what you mean. All of the drawer trim, shelf trim, and top trim is in a different finish. The last I counted, it was at 92 pieces and most are cut to fit. Not fun when you forgot to mark any of the shelf trim. I think it would be faster to just redo it.

Allen

Reply to
allen476

RE: Subject

A box of blackboard chalk is your friend in the shop.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I actually still use a pencil. The drawer trim I could mark on the underside with a drawer number and location and the top trim I could mark the location on the underside as well. The shelf trim is seen on three sides and I was going to mark it on the back with a shelf number and location, but my memory faded and I gathered everything up and put it away. Then I went "Doh". I spent today getting at least 2 of the 5 shelves sorted out. It took me less time to cut them all out the first time around......Oh well

Allen

Reply to
allen476

allen476 wrote in news:0f22d2ce-cc34-4c9a-aecf- snipped-for-privacy@g7g2000yqa.googlegroups.com:

*snip*

Blackboard chalk would seem to wash off quite easily, not good if you want to keep the marks after finishing. Incidentally, ink pen ink and permanent marker also washes off easily with certain finishes.

Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go.

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

No point. It's well documented that at least one part will always change dimensions as soon as glue is applied to it. No one quite understands how.

-Kevin

Reply to
Kevin

Precisely why I use chalk.

Good for temporary marks such as witness marks for glue-ups or assemblies, marking the side of a board you do not want to plane, sand, etc.

Permanent marking is a whole different ball of wax.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

One of the things I indulged myself with, when I had a shop, was an electric pencil sharpener and a box containing a gross of #2 pencils from Office Depot. Here in the desert, my little workbench still sports an electric pencil sharpener and I have a drawer with pencils and unlined paper as well.

Reply to
Nonny

that was what I was thinking. I never disassemble a project to finish it unless the parts are attached with hinges or slides. I may pre stain or finish panels in a door panel prior to glue up however.

Reply to
Leon

Where possible, I mark parts where they won't be seen -- on the tenons or the ends. On the edges of floating panels, etc. Most parts usually have some edge covered by something else or in a non-visible area.

Reply to
Mark & Juanita

On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:47:53 -0800, the infamous "Nonny" scrawled the following:

I'm an old-school Neander with a manual pencil sharpener mounted on the wall inside the shop door.

And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents.

-- To know what you prefer instead of humbly saying Amen to what the world tells you you ought to prefer, is to have kept your soul alive. -- Robert Louis Stevenson

Reply to
Larry Jaques

-------------------------------

Erasers?

What's an ERASER?

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

The pink thing on the other end of the pencil that leaces qa dark streak on the line you are trying to remove. ;~)

Reply to
Leon

I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC.

Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of?

I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes.

Reply to
Leon

The white ones are the good ones, at least in the sense that they erase thoroughly, don't chew up the paper too much, and don't seem to rot.

Reply to
J. Clarke

Quality pencils don't have erasers, that's why electric or even manual erasers exist.

Your choice of eraser material including pink pearl, white plastic or ink.

Available from any decent drafting supply house.

Add an erasing shield and you are good to go.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Drafting supplies are located one aisle over from buggy whips, towards the back of the store.

Reply to
salty

OMG! This is soooo retro, dude!!

Reply to
Swingman

------------------------------------------- Sounds like you live in a drafting supply house challenged area.

Have one within 5 miles of the front door.

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Staples and Office Depot have some basics. The craft stores (Michael's for example) have more. Real art supply places (Dick Blick for example) have a fair selection. The blueprint places these days are iffy--many of them have gone in so heavily for supporting electronic drafting that they are neglecting board drafting, but call around. If all else fails

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should have what you want and they're quite prompt.

Artists use computers for some purposes but Corel Painter is still a poor substitute for oils and canvas.

Reply to
J. Clarke

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