Timberwolf Blades. Is any one else having problems with them?

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Same thing happened to me, no more Timberwolf blades for me!

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I have the older Rikon 18" and had the same problem with a 1" blade. The blade was longer then all the blades I have also. The clicking sound was there also. I tried to file the weld joint to see if that helped and it didn't. No more timber wolf blades for me either. All the other blades I have work great.

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Leon wrote:

I don't know if this is any help, but I have the Rikon 18" bandsaw (although it might be the "older" one. At the time of purchase [November 2005] I was told that Rikon was coming out with a new one soon).
I use a 1/2 Timberwolf and it tracks great and I don't get a clicking sound.
But I will fire it up again tonight without the dust collector on to make sure. I have certainly never noticed a clicking, bad tracking or any other defect.
And, the tension I put on it is very low.. definitely below the 1/2" mark on the tensioning gauge. I want so say that it's tensioned around the 1/4 mark, but I'm not sure.
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I have timberwolf blades, haven's noted significant tracking problems and love the way they actually cut and they seem to last. Have had delta, olson blades which were just awful. MBR
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wrote:

=============After using my "little" Sears `12 in bandsaw for almost 40 years (with Timberwolf blades exclusively for at least the last 20 years ..) I finally though it was about timne to get a "little" better Bandsaw...
I do very little resawing (naturally I don't ..who does with a 12 in craftsman) and really do not wish to buy a 14 inched and add a riser...So I was thinking about The Jets and the Rikons... NOW you guys tell me I will also have (or maybe have ) problems with the brand of Blades I have been using for a long long time...
DUH... back to the drawing boards I guess...
Bob G.
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LOL. Well my Craftsman 12" BS was only 23 years old. I did in deed do some slow resawing with it, 5" Maple. Did I say slow?

That was my idealogy. I refuse to believe that the Timberwolf blades are bad. Have you ever opened up a bag of peanuts and a few in the bag are just rottin? I am thinking a bad batch of which I got 4. Anyway I had a new blade made up today locally and I picked it up today. No wobble. So in this case my problem with blade wobble seems to point towards these 4 Timberwold blades. Timberwolf is sending me a new 1" blade and I am betting it will be just fine.
NOW you

I think it is an unfortunate fluke.
Let me tell you that I nave been dealing with Rikon and Timberwolf and both parties are genuinely interested in solving the problem. The fact that another, 3rd brand blade tracks well on the Rikon BS is a relief to me. That said Rod with Rikon seems eager to help with saw adjustments if they are needed. I did not want to do any adjustments until I tried the 3rd brand blade.
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I have been using the Lennox baldes also, and have been very happy with them. There is a guy here who welds them up for small guys like me, and for the lumber mills. There was another post here recently about the Timberwolf blades breaking. I asked him about them. He said that they are more popular back east (I am in Oregon), and that they did have a bit of a reputation for quality control problems. I have never used one, and don't plan to. robo hippy
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I do not think it is a blade problem as much as, like you said, a quality control problem when welding.
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I get my Timberwolf blades thru a local company that buys bulk blade stock from them and welds them up to any size. Love the blades altho I have had one problem with a blade breaking which had nothing to do with Timberwolf but the company I bought it from. Of course they replaced it but not the kind of sound I enjoy coming out of my saw unexpectedly. For a second I thought one of my ex-wives had finally taken a shot at me. BTW, Timberwolf does provide special tensioning instructions as they do run under less tension than a normal blade.

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I believe you have the 10-240 model. the new model came out in late January and is now the 10-345.

The clicking I hear is the back of the blade hitting the thrus bearing.

I am sure your blade is doing fine. It is obvious, autibly and visibly. I do not think Timberwolf is a bad blade although I have never use them before. I think in this instance it is a QC problem.

My blades look like they flutter at the tight setting.
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Leon- I've got the same flutter problem with my 1" TW blade on my Rikon though it doesn't click. It does cut quite well. The original blade had a kink in it that I was unable to get out....my fault in transporting the saw.
How far forward can you adjust the side thrust bearings on the new model? I can only get about 9/16" coverage before the bearing block hits the guard. This leaves nearly 1/4" of blade behind the gullet not supported by the bearings.
Which model mobile base did you get and from who(m)?
Gary
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hello,
I have a 1" timberwolf on my HF raised BS and am more than happy with it!
cyrille

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On a 1" blade I can move the side bearings up past the bottom of the gullet. Too far actually, so the forward travel is plenty. The bearings are lower than the front bottom of the guard. The guard is cut higher at the back. I would gladly supply you with a picture if you like.

I bought the Rockler universal base that you supply the wood to complete. I think it is on sale right now for about $37.
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Thanks Leon. I've got a Rockler base on another tool and don't care for it much. The wheel surfaces are too hard and slide on my epoxied floor too easily.
If you could send me a photo of the bearing/guide set up I'd appreciate it. I'd ask you to post it on ABPW but Qwest drops them quickly or doesn't post them at all most of the time. (Usenet Replayer is my friend!)
Gary (grwilliams at qwest dot net)
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Leon wrote:

ok.. I'm just trying to help here.. I did fire mine up again, and there was no clicking. I don't mean to state the obvious.. but can you back off on the thrust bearing? I also didn't mean to say that I didn't believe you were having a problem.. I was just trying to share my experience. Let us know how it works out.
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Yes I can back off on the thrust bearing however the bearing becomes ineffective then. Basically the blade simply flexes and does not touch the bearing. The clicking is coming from the blade back not being flat. It clicks as it hits the bearing with each revolution. 2 other "Cheap" brand blades do not have this problem.
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I had the same problem about 8 or 9 years ago. I bought a couple of the 3/4 resaw blades and they had bad welds then, they sent replacements and they were the same. The blades cut fast, but the surface is not nearly as good as "The Woodslicer" from Highland Hardware - about $30 each. Anytime I have serious work and need the best finish, I use a woodslicer, Currently my last Timberwolf is on the saw for cutting firewood to length for my woodstove, and is great for getting turning stock ready for the lathe.
HTH, Mike
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I just found (Google) the old thread about this. It is dated Nov 8, 1998.
I used to post here a a fair amount, now I just lurk mostly.
Mike
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Doh!
Should have looked on the next page....
I wrote bandsaw blade 'thesis' on Jan 8, 1999 and it addresses the problems with the Suffolk blades.
not sure if this link will work.. but here it is anyhow.
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/browse_thread/thread/2fb0c13beca63ca7/85c9f99d0b3d845a?lnk=st&q=group%3Arec.woodworking+author%3Amike+author%3Aschwarz&rnum &hl=en#85c9f99d0b3d845a
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Still good and I am reading it now. Thanks.

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