Tilting Router Table Fence

Can be made to fit almost any existing router table. Open up the possibilities for new router profiles!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v
š88f1pv6jM
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On 4/26/2013 10:22 AM, snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote:

Very cool and well thought out fence you got there Brian..... If that thing was aluminum...... you might be the next competitor with Incra!
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+1. I could see it selling very well.
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On 4/27/2013 2:58 AM, snipped-for-privacy@none.com wrote:

Sorry, but I don't. I would think a tilting router base would work better. The gap at the bottom shows no support and that is a minus.
Sorry Brian, I didn't mean to rain on your parade. But support is everything, so is contact, its good, but not great.
I have seen tilting router supports for sale, and a nice home made from Matthias. I would not use the gear that he used, but I might use the screw drive that he had, just coupled differently.
--
Jeff

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On 4/27/2013 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:

How about a small chamfer on the back to lower the fence front when it's angled? It's for a router. How thin would the work be to be able to use a router?

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In Hamptonburgh, NY
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On 4/28/2013 10:13 AM, willshak wrote:

It's not the fence, its the workpiece. It is off the table where it is being cut. , I would rather have the piece sitting on the table. Secondly, with it off, I could not put a zero clearance insert in there. While not necessary, it's more controllable. I realize a CNC router doesn't have zero clearance. But there are definitely times you need it.
Brian's works, and works well, but it is a little bit of a compromise for this reason. In his example it makes it difficult to determine depth and height. If the piece lies flat on the table you know the depth and height.

--
Jeff

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On Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:39:58 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:

Not sure why the split fence opening is bothering you, but if it makes you uncomfortable then use a solid one piece fence w/ an opening in the middle for the bit.

Not at all. It's quite easy to determine the height. Line up your lumber in front of the bit against the table. You can see the profile that will be cut into the wood perfectly, height and depth.

There is a price reduction in the plans. $9.95
Cheers!

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On 4/28/2013 11:44 AM, snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote:

uncomfortable then use a solid one piece fence w/ an opening in the middle for the bit.

Brian, the split fence is not what is bothering me, its the edge that you are cutting that is off the table.

front of the bit against the table. You can see the profile that will be cut into the wood perfectly, height and depth.

--
Jeff

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On Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:55:16 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:

uncomfortable then use a solid one piece fence w/ an opening in the middle for the bit.

Why is this a problem? Determining the depth is a non-issue.

in front of the bit against the table. You can see the profile that will be cut into the wood perfectly, height and depth.

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On Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:39:58 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:

at

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Also - You are always going to have an opening in one of the workpiece cont act planes. There is no way around this if you want your router bit to mak e contact with the work piece. Two contact planes (router table surface an d fence) are all that is ever required to stabilize the work piece. In a n ormal, non-tilting fence, you still only have two contact planes and an ope ning for the bit. Nothing has changes but the tilt angle.


m

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On 4/28/2013 11:50 AM, snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote:

planes. There is no way around this if you want your router bit to make contact with the work piece. Two contact planes (router table surface and fence) are all that is ever required to stabilize the work piece. In a normal, non-tilting fence, you still only have two contact planes and an opening for the bit. Nothing has changes but the tilt angle.
I sometimes use a zero clearance plate , and fence insert. When I am cutting wood that tends to tearout badly. It's the only way I have found to have repeatablility without wood loss. My split fence has bevels in it to hold the insert. And I bought uncut inserts for my router plate. I just cut through to use them... No to little tearout even on wood that I found hard to cut otherwise.
--
Jeff

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On Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:59:15 AM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:

contact planes. There is no way around this if you want your router bit to make contact with the work piece. Two contact planes (router table surfac e and fence) are all that is ever required to stabilize the work piece. In a normal, non-tilting fence, you still only have two contact planes and an opening for the bit. Nothing has changes but the tilt angle.


Why would you not be able to adapt an insert in this case?

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On 4/28/2013 12:02 PM, snipped-for-privacy@garagewoodworks.com wrote:

See my post in alt binaries..
Overall you tilt table works and will work for many who want this form of tilt.
I just feel there is a better tilt by using the router tilted under the table. Less chance of tearout, less chance of errors.
See the binaries.
--
Jeff

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All things considered, this was a prototype and a fine first effort in my opinion. I'd expect any edition put up for sale to be mostly made out of metal with included sacrificial fences. It would include various judicious modifications as per your comment and others.
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On 4/28/2013 4:05 PM, snipped-for-privacy@none.com wrote:

Again, it's not the fence's gap, its the gap on the stock being cut. there's no support there.
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Jeff

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