Thin Molding Safely

The Latest in the GarageWoodworks Video Podcast Series:

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GarageWoodworks
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However.... ;~)

If you send both sides of the wood through the router you can make 1/2 the trips back and forth between the RT and the TS. There is typically no reason to not cut from both sides of the stock. With smaller moldings you can work all 4 corners at the RT before ripping at the TS.

Second, I do not recommend using a feather board for indexing the width of the cut. Because feather boards are designed to "give" you could have inconsistent cuts with more delicate moldings. You would be better served with a fixed and non flexible indexing fixture.

Your video and execution was great. I cannot suggest anything to do differently concerning your sound or lighting.

However.....:~)

When watching you at the TS with your garage door in the back ground, Scott "whatshisname" from American Woodshop came to mind. Clutter in the back ground. Yes I know you are just getting into this and I think you did a superb job but I think you could possibly take this much farther. Presentation was great. Make the whole picture appealing to all and you will appear to be more credible IMHO.

Scott for example spent several episodes a few years back building his new American Woodshop. Today the place looks like a pigsty. Total disorganization!

Reply to
Leon

Agreed, however the one I was using is very stiff (hard plastic). If you don't push it into the featherboard hard and just let it 'contact', it works fine.

You will notice that I didn't end up doing it that way, just offered it up as an alternative.

Small shop.

Reply to
GarageWoodworks

Added to video description.

Reply to
GarageWoodworks

Brian, I'm at best a hobbyist with nowhere near the knowledge and skills you have - just wanted to say that I appreciate these little tidbits you share with us... may never need to know "how-to" on a lot of such things, but that doesn't mean I don't learn something from each one I view. So, thanks!

Matt

Reply to
Matt

Small shop.

Understood, I work in similar conditions. Please don't take my clutter comment in a negative light. Seriously, I think you could make more of this, you have the stage presence. It was 100% better than I could'a done, probably. ;~) The polish worked well.

Reply to
Leon

Thanks Leon. I'm hoping to produce a new one every two weeks or so. I hope to have a mix of 'beginner' and 'intermediate' content (I wouldn't feel comfortable presenting 'advanced' woodworking techniques- If I know any that is.)

Reply to
GarageWoodworks

If you want to get serious with it, I'm not sure what kind of camera you're using now but one thing you could do is use a dslr with video mode. These are capable of having a smaller depth of field, which allows your subject (you) to be in focus but not the background. It's not going to clean up the shop for you, but it makes it less noticeable so the viewer's attention goes where you want it. Dslr's now are making it possible to get professional quality HD video for not much cost.

The lighting, it looks like maybe you have a floodlight pointed straight at you. There are times when there's a clear shadow behind you or the wood you're holding catches the light and is blown out. Ideally you want to diffuse the light, either by using expensive pro lighting or just by bouncing it off walls or ceilings to spread it out. If you had a white ceiling to bounce light off you'd have it easier. A dslr helps out here too because it doesn't need as bright lighting, without the noise becoming unacceptable.

-Kevin

Reply to
Kevin

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