The WWing Gods have spoken (sorry to ramble)

Greetings, I don't want to bore the Wreck with the details, but I'm into a major remodel of my house. It will realistically take a couple of years, mainly because I will do a lot of it myself (damn that budget!). It will involve amongst others, a new kitchen and bathroom.

Although I would like to do the kitchen cabs myself, my time frame (and current skill levels) won't allow it. But the bathroom cabs are now on my to-do list. :-) I'm shooting for an asian influenced design, and my wood of choice is teak. While my wife and I were at a bathroom supply/design center yesterday we found the exact style we are after. Made from teak and the design we want. Unfortunately her jaw dropped when she saw the $2000 (US) price tag on the vanity. Where she is from, that is what a person earns in a year! (Don't ask, another long story). She told me to find another kind of cabinet that won't cost so much. Damn, there goes the bathroom I wanted. :-(

Lo and behold, what was in the mail when we arrived home? The latest Wood magazine with a bathroom vanity on the front cover!!! She asks if I can make something like that myself. I tell her honestly that I haven't made any cabinets (yet), but by following/adapting the magazine plans I should be able to do it. Of course, I follow with, "But I do need one more tool in order for this to happen". The DJ-20 (too bad the price just went up $50) would complete my major machine purchases, and she gave me the go-ahead to get one. Hot Damn!!!!!

So all of this has led up to a few questions (of course). I'm in the midst of going through some of the 4,190 references to teak via Google. Most of the posts are about finishing, but first I seek advice on buying teak. There are many types of teak, and the cabs we like are Burmese teak. Do all types of teak have a similar look? Can anyone recommend a mail order source, or should I find a local hardwood lumber yard and pick it out myself? I already know it is an expensive wood.

When it comes to machining, I realize using carbide is advisable. Is teak tough on planer/jointer blades also? Are the DJ-20 blades reversible, or should I just order a spare set before I need them? It's worth the price, just to avoid having to stop for sharpening in the middle of something. As for the mortises, I'll probably get the conical stone for the chisels.

Lastly (for now), what about glue? I know this has been hashed out before, is poly the way to go? The oil that gives teak it insect/water resistant also makes it difficult to glue. I'm still looking through Google about glue anyway...

Thanks to all who find the time to help me out, Mark L.

Reply to
Mark L.
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Teak is an oily wood, full of silicon. It will quickly dull your bits, blades, and knives. Clean the glue surface areas with acetone before applying woodworkers glue. Most teak, with exception of Burma, is rather dark so a dark woodworkers glue is a better choice. Find a local source to save on shipping costs. Personally, I'd pick a lower cost wood such as oak, maple or even cherry and save my cutting edges and wallet.

Reply to
Phisherman

Reply to
Mark L.

Having made that decision, you might find it helpful to do a Google Groups search on "teak texas" in this newsgroup

I recall that there was someone in Texas with a substantial supply that he was willing to ship around the USA.

Reply to
Morris Dovey

Reply to
Mark L.

Cool!>

Try vivisimo.com the left hand edge of the screen will sort the various responses into subcategories (very helpful).

finishing, but first I seek advice on buying

Best bet is to scope out the wood in the flesh at a local woodyard. If you find what you like then check out other sources. Don't forget that your local supplier has to sell his product to make a living, so compare prices carefully. What you save in taxes and other fees may be eaten up by the shipping cost from some out of town supplier.

Tony

Reply to
Anthony VanCampen

I've used teak for a small project. In my case, a jewelery box.

It's really tough on HSS blades, router bits, what have you. Go carbide. The knives on that DJ-20 are HSS, they're not reversable. Teak has a lot of silica in it, it's also oily. There's epoxy available for oily wood, a product from Industrial Formulators of Canada named G2. I think you can get if from Lee Valley.

Reply to
Lazarus Long

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Mark L.

Reply to
Mark L.

I think you're talking about Jeremy: snipped-for-privacy@dcnet2001.com . He hasn't been around lately that I know of. I emailed him a couple months ago about his teak. Didn't hear back. Hope he's OK. mahalo, jo4hn

Reply to
jo4hn

Reply to
Mark L.

I could have written this... while picking through 2X6 studs and 1/2" CDX Saturday I had to keep chanting the mantra "it's not furniture, it's not for furniture... it's not furniture, it's not for furniture..." ;-)

Good choice. I really like mine. Re the knives, they are not reversible. I'd think you should be able to get through a vanity project and more without sharpening if you keep using a different part of the knives by moving the fence regularly.

John

Reply to
John Grossbohlin

Reply to
Mark L.

There's a wood they buy in quantity at the local cabinet shop which they call canarywood, other posters here might be able to tell you more about it, but to me it's very close to the look and properties of teak, and, I believe, less expensive.

Reply to
BUB 209

Reply to
nospambob

Bub 209 responds:

Don't know about the expense, but Centrolobium spp. looks a lot like teak, is about as durable, and works much more easily...no inclusions, no need for special gluing clean-ups.

Canarywood seems to be the preferred name, but one source lists 42 common names for varied species. AKA arirba, porcupinewood, putumuju.

Charlie Self "Bore, n.: A person who talks when you wish him to listen." Ambrose Bierce, The Devil's Dictionary

Reply to
Charlie Self

Teak is gonna be right pricey but is found at any number of sources.

You didn't mention what part of the world you are in ???

Teak plywood would be a MUCH better choice for a bathroom vanity.

These folks carry most of the major flavors:

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MUCH cheaper and easier wood is Spanish Cedar which is neither spanish or cedar but is a beautiful exotic that is a member of the mahogany family and sells MUCH cheaper than teak.

Check with these folks:

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Mark L. wrote:

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Pat Barber

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Mark L.

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